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Thread: Few general questions about my car

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    Few general questions about my car

    No idea where to actually post this, so here will hopefully be okay. Couple of questions that members may be able to help me with.
    1999 pulsar sedan, 1.6ltr GA16d engine.
    1. Changing my thermostat when I get a weekend off. Apart from the fact it's a bugger of a place/job, where, if there is one, is any air bleed bolts? Or it just pushes the excess air, if any, back in to the overflow bottle?

    2. Whenever I turn the dash fan on, the revs increase by about 100rpm. If it's idling at say 900, if I turn the fan on, even the low/first click, the revs jump up. Not as much as if I've turned on the air con, but it does increase. Turning on headlights doesn't do it, but the fan does. Never happened in any other car, so it's got me bugged.

    3. Front door speakers. Mine are knackered. Rather than remove the trim, then measure them, then put trim back on to go buy the right size, I'm hoping someone has already replaced theirs and can just tell me the size. I'm assuming 6 inch, but assuming can be costly sometimes.
    Ummm, that's about all I can think of that I need help with. So any help/advice, thanks heaps.

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    1. Yup it's near the coolant sensor, (10mm) has a label near it saying "don't open while hot" kinda thing

    2. Perfectly normal.

    3. A 6" fits better than a 6.5" in a sedan. If you want an easy way out and want something better than factory, buy the Sony 6" with the multiple mounting tabs, it makes it a straight bolt in job.
    PNP HID, the AIDS of auto electrics.

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    yakabot (24-02-2016)

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    If in doubt, boost it out Paullus's Avatar
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    1. According to this thread there's a yellow headed bolt under the dizzy. SR20DEs are conveniently located on the thermostat housing at the front of the engine.

    2. Perfectly normal. That's the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) doing its thing. Idle is increased to adjusted for the extra load of the radiator fans and air compressor. Headlights do not trigger it AFAIK.

    3. From memory they're 6" but need a spacer. The factory speakers are oval and mounted in a roundish plate. Spacer is needed to allow circular mounting and stop the magnet hitting the door skin.

    EDIT: Fortnite beat me to it.

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    yakabot (24-02-2016)

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    Thanks heaps. Really. I have a bit more to ask about one of the replies, but just leaving work and can't quote easily using tapatalk. Will do it from my PC.

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    If in doubt, boost it out Paullus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yakabot View Post
    Thanks heaps. Really. I have a bit more to ask about one of the replies, but just leaving work and can't quote easily using tapatalk. Will do it from my PC.
    To quote a post just tap the arrow in the bottom right corner like I just did. You can also edit the quote post too.
    Paul

    11.9@125

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    yakabot (24-02-2016)

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    Thanks Paullus. I knew/know how, but editing the unwanted parts on my phone gets a bit hard. Easier on a PC. Which I'll be back at about an hour or two from now and can ask away again.

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    Paullus (25-02-2016)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fortnite View Post
    1. Yup it's near the coolant sensor, (10mm) has a label near it saying "don't open while hot" kinda thing
    Thanks. I had seen that bolt and warning label, and was going to totally ignore the warning and use it for bleeding.Figured that's why it's there.

    Quote Originally Posted by Paullus View Post
    2. Perfectly normal. That's the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) doing its thing. Idle is increased to adjusted for the extra load of the radiator fans and air compressor. Headlights do not trigger it AFAIK.
    I may have not asked/explained correctly. I mean turning the fan on, but NOT with the air con switched on. Just the fan blower on it's own, to draw outside air in. I do understand the IACV kicking in when the air con gets turned on, but this is just for the blower part. I wouldn't have thought it would draw enough current to force the engine to kick in a few more revs, hence why I compared it to the headlight current draw.
    It's not a biggie, but thought it may have been a sign of a wonky alternater or battery. But the battery in it works fine since I got the car a few months ago.
    Was just a general question, as maybe they all do it.

    So, thanks to both of you for your replies. Haven't done enough work on my car yet to be able to pass on much knowledge to anyone else yet, apart from my thread where I postes pics about doing the rear speakers.

    Now, one more I've just thought of. Night time, the dahs lights work on my demister switch, but should the Hazard switch also have a light? Not the one the flashes when you activate them, but the duller type, so you can see where the switch is?

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    All normal no wonky anything, nothing to worry about. Both the hazards and demister have illumination lights, they are tiny and easy to spot once you have the switches out. Flat blade screwdriver will release them with an anti clockwise turn from memory.
    PNP HID, the AIDS of auto electrics.

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    Thanks Fortnite. The hazard switch is no biggie, and in all my cars ever, I don't think I've ever had to use them. I've hit the hazard switch on my forklift more often. (Accidently. Next to headlight switch and you can't see either of them properly)

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