N14 front lower control arms

Is there any benefit in getting genuine Nissan or would the eBay ones be just as good.

As there is a pair selling on eBay for $180, genuine Nissan is more then that each side. the eBay ones have bushes and ball joints. I would replace the bushes with the nolathane/whiteline upgraded versions but what about the ball joints?

Also, whats needed to remove and change the LCA and associated bushes? If someone has a tech article that would be great.


Side note, to change the bushes is a press needed, or is it just slide in and out. As the only reason i was going to buy new ones instead of doing the ones on the car is basically less downtime as its a daily.


Cheeers

SSS_Hoon

Genuine parts are pretty much guaranteed to meet all specs and tolerances, with after market you cant be so sure. Having said that see if there are any reviews on those specific items and if not see if their are manufacture reviews. Also the price should tell you something, I'm not sure what a decent set would normally set you back if they're dirt cheap then there's a reason for it.

As for a tech write up I don't have one but I think the only real thing that'll vary are the torque setting for the nuts which any service manual should tell you.You might need a press but you can get away with a rubber mallet.

Here's a video on how to do it if you're interested.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CmN2dRAiuj0

Cheers,

Aaron

Edit.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SSS_Hoon

Is there any benefit in getting genuine Nissan or would the eBay ones be just as good.

As there is a pair selling on eBay for $180, genuine Nissan is more then that each side. the eBay ones have bushes and ball joints. I would replace the bushes with the nolathane/whiteline upgraded versions but what about the ball joints?

Also, whats needed to remove and change the LCA and associated bushes? If someone has a tech article that would be great.


Side note, to change the bushes is a press needed, or is it just slide in and out. As the only reason i was going to buy new ones instead of doing the ones on the car is basically less downtime as its a daily.


Cheeers

SSS_Hoon

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For the price difference, you're not going to get a benefit. The OEM parts will last a LOT longer than the aftermarket, especially the rubber bits. I have found the aftermarket balljoint boots tend to start to crack within 12 months and will tear soon after with only minor persuasion. OEM ones remain solid for a lot longer. I haven't had the bushings fail due to tearing or anything silly, but the rubber doesn't 'feel' like the same quality as OEM.

Make sure you measure the control arms you get as i once got sent a 'pair' of control arms and one was an N14 and one N15. N15's are longer than N14 arms and it makes it awfully hard to align the car with different length control arms...

You can use a hacksaw and a drill to remove the old bushings (drill rubber out, hacksaw through the metal outer ring, don't cut through the control arm!) if you're careful, but a press with the right accessories does the job right. Aftermarket 'solid' bushings can be inserted without a press, as mentioned, a rubber mallet or a vice with a few sockets works just fine.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by synthchemist

Genuine parts are pretty much guaranteed to meet all specs and tolerances, with after market you cant be so sure. Having said that see if there are any reviews on those specific items and if not see if their are manufacture reviews. Also the price should tell you something, I'm not sure what a decent set would normally set you back if they're dirt cheap then there's a reason for it.

As for a tech write up I don't have one but I think the only real thing that'll vary are the torque setting for the nuts which any service manual should tell you.You might need a press but you can get away with a rubber mallet.

Here's a video on how to do it if you're interested.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CmN2dRAiuj0

Cheers,

Aaron

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Genuine will be a direct bolt on. however cheaper option Isn't necessarily the best option because there will be quality variance between OEM and eBay parts.

Cheers, thanx guys.

I might look into getting new bushes and ball joints and see what the price difference is.

It hasn't happen to me but be careful if your going to press out the ball joints, Ive heard they can become a sloppy fit if pressed in and out too many times.

Cozzmo have you ever looked at the N13 LCA? i seem to remember overlaying them over my N14's and just by eye they lined up... I think?

Has anyone seen LCA Ball joints with grease nipples?

I used Moog ball joints when I replaced mine two or three years ago. They were a perfect fit, they have caused me no issues and they have grease nipples. From memory they were around $25 US each plus post. Will they outlast oem ones? Ask me in twenty years.

Was interesting to note that the little installation paperwork that came in the box with them was printed in 1993. They were certainly sitting on the shelf a long time.

You can use N15 LCA's - fairly easy and cheap to obtain off a late model (98~00) at the wrecker

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ruddigger

It hasn't happen to me but be careful if your going to press out the ball joints, Ive heard they can become a sloppy fit if pressed in and out too many times.

Cozzmo have you ever looked at the N13 LCA? i seem to remember overlaying them over my N14's and just by eye they lined up... I think?

Has anyone seen LCA Ball joints with grease nipples?

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Ball Joints is a difficult issue because so many times people end up the wrong ones as they 'think' they have certain ones on the car and there is actually a diameter difference between the various models.

N13 control arms are similar to GTI-R control arms with regards to the rear bush, otherwise they are probably pretty similar to an N14 one but i've never had them side by side.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by synthchemist

Here's a video on how to do it if you're interested.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CmN2dRAiuj0

Cheers,

Aaron

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Thats not for a pulsar though, and the control arm is a diff shape, but i get the idea.

cheers

You really need a ball joint separator for the N14

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Martin

You really need a ball joint separator for the N14

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Is that to take the ball joint out of the control arm, or the ball joint out of the hub/knuckle?

It's to push the ball joint out of the hub - you will use it on the steering arm as well

If you leave the nut on at the top and hit it with a hammer you will damage the nut threads (safety issue)

you just belt the knuckle on the hub needs a solid firm hit

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Martin

It's to push the ball joint out of the hub - you will use it on the steering arm as well

If you leave the nut on at the top and hit it with a hammer you will damage the nut threads (safety issue)

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Ball joint separator = Ghetto gunshot noise

Yeah - always gives me a fright when they break apart

Well i did it on the weekend.

All done and all by myself. Whoo hoo.

The noise and the bangs n clunks are all gone. (although turns out the main culprit was the sway bar drop link was not done up at the sway bar itself.) So i have a very dirty pair of LCA with whiteline bushes in them, that im sure once cleaned will be ok to use again, just need new ball joints in them though.

Also changed the steering rack boots at the same time. The new stretch boots are awesome don't even need to take off the steering rack tie rods ends. Although i had to replace the drivers side, as i umm didn't put the nut on far enough before i hit it with the hammer. Sort of stuffed the thread. Wasn't that bad a thing anyway as the bot had split so needed replacing anyway.


So tomorrow its off for a wheel alignment.


So good when u accomplish something that you have never done before and turns out correct.