G'day guys
I am running my pulsar in the pulsar series i do an oil change every round, I run an oil filter re-locator and an oil cooler i am using 10w30 Penrite 10/10ths seams to be good what are others using ?
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G'day guys
I am running my pulsar in the pulsar series i do an oil change every round, I run an oil filter re-locator and an oil cooler i am using 10w30 Penrite 10/10ths seams to be good what are others using ?
Castrol edge 0w40
0w? Gee that's pretty thin. Has the engine been reco'd or something?
Racing temps with factory engine clearances, I thought most people would op for 10 or 15.
The 0W is the cold viscosity (the W stands for winter) - it's irrelevant for racing temperaturesQuote:
Originally Posted by Leroy Peterson
I'm also using Penrite 10/10's Racing but 10W40 for two reasons:Quote:
Originally Posted by Firko
1) Autobarn and SuperCheap and Repco in my area don't stock the 10W30 :-(
2) My engine is a sloppy (and gutless) old dog
It's not a true 40 anyway, more like a 30+
Seems good, engine sounds nicer than when I obtained the car (was in terrible mechanical condition)
I used the same oil in 3 rounds (no oil cooler) - just done an oil change ready for the next round
One thing about sloppy engines, they are pretty happy to rev, just takes it's time getting there (fingers crossed it does not let go)
Back to school for meQuote:
Originally Posted by Martin
Attachment 1006
Out of the nissan service manual,
Lots of people say it doesn't seem right,
But all I can say is its straight from nissan and they should know best
Yeah - there will be a reason behind their recommendations (I wish they would provide the reasons)
For example it's common for engines with variable valve timing to not like thick oil because the VVT oil channels are tiny
With regard to the above not recommending 0W unless it's a very cold environment,
maybe the oil drains too easily while not in use, resulting in less lubrication at start up
caltex havoline is best engine oil
maybe in pakistan.lolQuote:
Originally Posted by malik52
LOL
There are many good oils out there for sure
The problem is many manufacturers use the same brand name across a wide range of products, from mineral to semi-synthetic to fully synthetic to racing oils
e.g. Havoline Formula (mineral), Havoline Synthetic Blend, Havoline Fully Synthetic
Same with Castrol Edge, Shell Helix, etc, etc
For this reason it's not valid to generalize about a brand being the best
As the Pulsar Challenge engines are all stock, any SM or SN rated oil is probably going to be ok
Especially as many competitors appear to be doing frequent oil changes
We've had a fair few crank seizures but I think that's more to do with the old condition of the engine/bearing and clearance issues
Quote:
Originally Posted by sss4me
:P yup
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/Quote:
Originally Posted by Firko
Very, very long, but very, very worthwhile read. Frictional surfaces inside your engine (bearings/journals, pistons/bores, etc.) don't actually come into contact with each other when the engine is running; if they did, even for a second or two, it would cause significant damage. A very thin (thousands, if not ten thousandths of an inch) film of oil is sandwiched between the two surfaces allowing them to 'float' on it. As your motor runs, forces are generated between these surfaces that must be resisted by the film of oil; the film's ability to resist these forces is called its strength (film strength).
If the forces applied to your connecting rods are of a higher lbs/square inch of force than your film strength can support, the oil film will fail and the journal and bearing will make contact and damage will occur.
Film strength changes with temperature because the viscosity of fluid decreases as it is heated, so the hotter your oil gets, the 'thinner' it gets (imagine honey at room temperature, and honey after it's heated up in the microwave). Oil is generally designed to operate at 212 degrees Fahrenheit, or 100 degrees Celsius. The first number in your oil's viscosity grade, the one with the W, is the cold viscosity (W is for Winter); this is the viscosity of your oil at (usually) 32 degrees Fahrenheit, or 0 degrees Celsius. This is why it's not a good idea to thrash your car when it's cold, as your oil is not at its ideal temperature (it's thicker than it will be at operating temperature) and is not protecting frictional surfaces to it's maximum capacity.
Anyway, film strength is probably the most important aspect of the oil that goes into your engine, regardless of the viscosity rating. I have been using 5W-30 Mobil 1 API-SN Synthetic for years. I moved away from it for a while and tried numerous other oils, including Penrite 10 Tenths, Royal Purple, and others, but after reading the initial link I posted, I have gone back to Mobil 1 5W-30 and will never use anything else, unless I can get my hands on one of the higher rated oils mentioned in the list (but they're not sold here in Australia). I also refuse to use oils with third party additives, even though some tested very well, but that's just a personal preference.
Hope this helps.
There are multiple flavors of Mobile 1 - the USA produced version being the best - but it's still nothing to write home about, it's just another modern oil
They used to advertise using Mobile 1 for 45k, there were so many complaints and engine damage claims against them they withdrew that advert
Mobile 1 totally failed to impress in the Ben Nightingale oil test published by street Commodores years ago - use the PDF link to read the article
Penrite 10/10ths and Royal Purple were at the top of the food chain by a long margin in this test
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...il%20Tests.pdf
You should actually read the article I linked, but let's talk about "Ben Nightingale's" "Oil test" and compare his test to 504 RAT's.Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin
Occupation:
Ben Nightingale - Deputy Editor of Street Commodore Magazine.
504RAT - Qualified Mechanical Engineer. U.S. Patent Holder for a mechanical product designed for military aircraft. Member of SAE. Member of ASME. Life-long engine builder, drag racer and mechanic.
No comparison.
Testing Methodology:
Ben Nightingale - Posted on car forums asking for ideas on how to conduct his "oil test".
(source: http://forums.noria.com/eve/forums/a...5/m/8381065241)
A quote regarding the Falex test, taken directly from the last post in the source thread linked above:
504RAT - As a qualified mechanical engineer he designed his own testing methodology that is more stringent, and also more relevant to real world motor oil applications than current standardised testing methodologies (which is explained in the introduction to the blog). His testing methodology is so good that since publishing his list he's been approached by race teams and large oil companies with requests for help and offers of employment (which he turned down, so as to stay unaffiliated and continue providing unbias advice).Quote:
Hi Ben. My name is Roger Miller. I do work for Red Line Oil in Victoria. One of my clients passed on your enquiry. In a rough sense this test is used for grease not oil. It is like using a quarter mile drag strip to find the "best four wheel drive on the market." A real test but totally irrelevent to what happens in the real world.The addition of friction modifiers to the test bears this out. You can take the nastiest oil on the market, add friction modifier to it and it will out-perform the best oil on the market. If you add friction modifier to a GL1 oil in this falex test you can make it exceed the results for a GL5 oil. Most general use oils contain friction modifiers to a greater or lesser degree depending on the recipe the oil manufacturer is using that particular day. So what does the falex test really test...???
Bias:
Ben Nightingale - Works for Street Commodore, who have sponsors, who they have to keep happy. Also completely ignored the advice of a Red Line Oil employee regarding the invalidity of the Falex test they used, and published the results of the test as fact anyway.
504RAT - Is completely independent, has no sponsors, publishes the results as they are.
Like I said, you should actually read the article I posted. If I have to choose between the Deputy Editor of Street Commodore (lol), and a qualified Mechanical Engineer who's worked on and around race cars his whole life... I know whose advice I'm taking.
a few thoughts...
most engine wear occurs at startup. a smaller lower (winter) number is only going to help you. nissans factory fill was/is 7.5w-30. most people use a 5w-.
if you haven't got a cat convertor, and your racing, using an oil high in zddp (royal purple,motul 300v, penrite 10-10ths) sure wont hurt.
if you've got an oil cooler, chances are the oil is not going over the 120 degree mark anyway. what your using is fine.
Castrol Edge 0W40 is for petrol AND diesel engines…
Only one oil to use:
Castrol Edge 5W30
break in with Castrol GTX Modern 10w30
run Nulon 5w30 long life engine oil (E85 compatible due to receiving dexos1 accreditation)