• N13 Thread to Beat All N13 Threads


    This will be the ultimate N13 thread with all the stuff you need to know about N13's, specifically 18le sedan models, but some info will be relevant to 16lf and hatchbacks.Also this should stop the a lot of simple and repeated questions because people are to lazy to do a search.

    A couple of things to start with:

    1) I have spent the time searching through threads finding information for my own benefit, when i finished I decided I'd edit it all and then post the info I had found in a single thread to help others.

    2) I am not trying to take credit for other members posts. Let it be made clear this information was already on the site under hundreds and hundreds of different threads. So thank you to you guys for the great help (cant name you all)

    3) Please don't ask questions in this thread, it would be great at could be kept tidy so it is easy read. If the information you are after isn't here DO A SEARCH!!

    4) Please don't hold me accountable for wrong information, modifications and prices, it is just what I found searching.

    5) To all those who get told to do a search because of questions they have asked, take the time to it, you wont be disappointed this site is the best reference for anything about pulsars. If its not here then it doesn't exist.


    Rotors and Callipers:

    • N14 SSS brake setup bolts up directly as a minor upgrade from the factory items, while the AD22VF brake setup (GTi-R, NX coupe, and n15 SSS) bolt up providing a more major upgrade. The only difference with GTi-R brake setup is the need to fit the left calliper to the right hand side and the right calliper to the left hand side at the rear only.

    • Can’t get the 22F's on the rear, as they have no handbrake provision, unless running a hydraulic handbrake.

    • GTi-R /N15 SSS are 257x26mm. DBA make a cross slotted and drilled rotor or the DBA901 is available in X-drilled and slotted. Costing an extra $70 per disc.

    • The only setup to fit in N13 14 inch rims are the N14 SSS. Bigger brakes can be fitted up with n13 SSS rims if you grind a few mm off the leading edge of the calliper.


    • Bendix Performance brake pads.

    • EBC Kevlar Black Street or EBC Green Stuff pads.

    • Stock Nissan pads.

    • Lucas Pads.


    • AD22VF Callipers: $150-$200.
    • DBA Slotted Rotors: $250.
    • Calliper Reconditioning Kits: $50.
    • Lucas Pads: $70.
    • DBA901: $130 each.
    • Brake Pad Set (Bendix Performance: $100 (Front).
    • Motul Brake Fluid (RBF 600): $25 (500mL).
    • N14 SSS Rotors and Callipers: $70.
    • Full N14Gti-R Setup: $500 (new rotors, EBC pads and callipers and brackets).
    • EBC Green Stuff Pads: $100.
    • Sports Series X-drilled, Slotted, Ventilated Rotors: $200 (rear)/$250 (front).


    Performance Modifications:

    • Modifications to the 18LE may be as little as a pod, extractors and exhaust, progressing to heads, cams, valves etc., right up to the 20LE conversions performed by a few PGA members – these are the guys who know everything about the 18LE, and are definitely the people to talk to.

    • An 18le that has aftermarket ECU, extractors, a good exhaust and air filter gets ~95kW at the fly.

    • If your handy and have a small budget there is no reason why you can’t get a 18LE producing around 70kws atw. For around 70kw atw; 2.5-3in intake pipe and POD, JD camshaft, JD shaved head, JD inlet manifold, VP throttle body, 9.6:1 compression and a remapped computer.

    • Big cams, lots of porting, a very free flowing exhaust and custom pulse tuned headers to complement it all. Of course, with a free flowing head and exhaust, you'll need an appropriate intake manifold and management.

    • Combustion chamber shaping and higher compression, lighter and forged pistons to lower reciprocating mass, 20LE, Lightened crank and rods to lower reciprocating mass (can be forged), a lightened flywheel and injector, ignition and management upgrades all accordingly.


    *The block can be bored to 86mm (SAFELY) anything beyond this you run the risk of flexing and collapsing.*

    • Re-build the engine from the bottom up and use JD or JE Camira bottom end components (crank, pistons, rods, etc.) in the 18LE block for 20LE with better torque. The following things should be replaced with a rebuilt. In no particular order conrod bearings, crank bearings, front and rear crank seals, new head bolts, new rings, block re-honed, chemically cleaned and decked, head rebuild, VRS kit, oil pump gasket. On a small budget, don't worry too much about bearings. Just be aware that replacing the rings means honing the bores, this could lead to pistons which are out of tolerance, which means more money.


    • NTK brand or GM O2 sensor. The oxygen sensor is behind the manifold and looks like a spark plug with a wire on the top of it. It may take a while to take it off because there is little room. You need a to get the O2 Sensor in and out use a 7/8" AF ring spanner and make sure you clean the threads in the hole as well as you can, because the sensor needs that earth path to work properly.

    • Replacing a faulty MAP vacuum hose does great things for fuel economy and is cheaper to replace than a Lambda sensor. The MAP vacuum hose comes off the TB and is about 10 mm thick and runs to the MAP sensor, a black plastic thing which is on the firewall.


    • The 18LE operating degrees are optimal at 70 - 90 C.

    • Solid brass or copper core radiator cool far better then a standard one and a new copper core radiator is available from autopartsonline.com.au.

    • Monza Heat Shield is a good product.


    • IACV means Idle Air Control Value.

    • 1.8L LD Astra thermostat is the same as the N13 thermostat.

    • A seal kit for behind the cam timing belt gear and the crank one as well from ACL is "T163SK" for the 18LE (87-90).

    • The pump for the windscreen washer bottle can bought from places like
    K-Mart, Super Cheap Auto etc. for a pretty cheap price.

    • Changing the engine mounts and torque dampeners gives very noticeable results.

    • Mackay do brand new mounts for the N13, from any auto store. Don’t use second hand engine mounts, considering the car it comes from will most likely have been involved in an accident, it's over 10 years old, and/or the rubber will be stuffed.

    • Replaced the oil breather hose and the car will run much better. There a pain to clean, so just buy a new one from Nissan or Holden. If you get it from Holden it's a bit more open so it's easier to clean later on.

    • Losing acceleration can be due to a stuffed or stretched accelerator cable, replace or tighten it to improve acceleration.


    • Top gun spiral core stainless leads, Spitfire leads or Silicone "Eagle Eliminator" spiral core ignition leads are good brands.

    Silicone "Eagle Eliminator" Spiral Core Ignition Leads Specifications:
    1) These are the same (or better) than the Top Gun Pro Racing leads.
    2) 7-10.5 mm (SPIRAL CORE).
    3) Multi stranded high tensile glass inner support.
    4) Helical wound stainless steel conductor.
    5) Conductive silicone for positive terminal contact.
    6) High temperature high dielectric silicone inner jacket.
    7) Fibreglass reinforcing braid for cross sectional and tensile strength.
    8) 260°C High Temperature modified silicone outer jacket ensures complete protection from heat and engine bay contaminants.

    • Platinum or Iridium NGK sparkplugs and Boshc starter motor work well.

    Injection and Fuel:

    • The 18LE has a PFI system (port fuel injection, or multi point injection)

    • Porsche 928 injectors (Bosch 0 280 150 706 high impedance injectors) are completely the same externally as the N13 (Bosch 0 280 150 725), but they are rated at 214 cc/min at 43 psi, rather than the stock 170 cc/min at 43 psi. The 706 are good for about 50 hp each with the right fuel pressure, so about 200 hp is feasible. Just use a chip editor to change the injector constant, erase a spare N13 Memcal, and burn the new code onto it. The injectors from a 215 kW VN Group A or TN Magna are the same as Porsche ones. People want $400 to fire up their EPROM burners in Sydney and $200 for the injectors, $80 to fit them and $400 to tune it = $700 for no more horsepower.

    • 440cc GTi-R or R32 injectors can be used which are the same but require fiddling with the rubber seals to make them fit and seal in the fuel rail and throttle body properly.

    • The only reason to have bigger injectors is because you are making 100 kW+.

    • The Walbro GSS314 bolts into almost all performance Nissan tanks. Including Skylines, Silvias and Pulsars.

    • How to Replace Fuel Pump:
    1) Pull out the back seats.
    2) Undo the 4 screws and take off on the metal pate with a grommet (made of rubber) and leads coming off it.
    3) Unplug the leads if you have to taking note of where they go.
    4) Then you will see the fuel pump (which is a bitch to get out the first time).
    5) Pull the hoses off and unscrew the 6 or so screws.
    7) Turn and pull the pump up and out.


    • The following oils are recommended by members on PGA; Mobil Synthetic S, BP Visco 3000 or 5000 ($$$), Valvoline Engine Armour 15W-40, Penrite HPR 30 15W-60 Semi-Synthetic, Shell Semi-Synthetic 15W-50, Valvoline Duraplus or 15W-50 Penrite Semi-Synthetic.

    • Semi-synthetic 15W-50 in the old engines, or full-synthetic 10W-50 a new one. The workshop manual recommends 15w-50.


    • 18LE: $100 (trashed) or $250-$350 (good condition).
    • 18LE Rebuild with JD Internals (2.0L bore): $2000 + tuning (+$1000 labour).
    • Stock Bottom End, Headwork, Camshaft and Tune: $1000.
    • Stock Re-build, Headwork, Camshaft and Tune: $2000 (good engine with no need to replace the pistons).
    • 20LE with the above work: $3000 (with new pistons).
    • Rebuild Kit: $600.
    • Piston Set: $500.
    • Hypatech 7.5:1 Pistons: $270 (with rings).
    • Piston Ring Kit: $85 (high carbon steel compression rings)
    • Engine Seals and Bearings: $150-$300.
    • Boring and honing: $150
    • Block Honing, Decking and Crank Linishing: $350
    • Crank Grind: $90.
    • Main Bearing Kit: $86.
    • Big-end Bearing Kit: $65.
    • Small-end Bushings: $35.
    • Crank Case Seals and Gaskets: $75.
    • Main Bearing Bolts: $45.
    • Big-end Bolts: $33.
    • Small-end Bush Install: $50.
    • Crank Balance: 55.
    • New Water Pump: $60-80.
    • New Timing Belt: $25.
    • Thermostat and Housing: $40.
    • Belts: $60.
    • Walbro GSS314 Fuel Pump: $170.
    • New Copper Core Radiator: $235.
    • Sump and Scraper Plate Gasket: $20.
    • Distributor Parts: $130 (Ignition Module, Cap, Rotor Arm Etc).
    • Bosch 0280150706 High Impedance Injectors: $120 (each).
    • Ignition Leads: $25 plus.
    • Penrite HPR 30 (15W-60) Semi-Synthetic-$25 (5L).
    • Shell Semi-Synthetic 15W-50: $25 (5L).


    Interchangeable Parts:

    • On the GXE and Ti (series 1) there is a chrome moulding surround for the side of the car, incorporating the gutter strip (clips on along the top of the door shuts to redirect water run off), rear vent panels which sit behind the rear door shuts, and the rubber moulds that run along the bottom of the windows where they meet the door. The gutter strip can only be found on the hatch but the window rubber/chrome moulds are the same in size on both the sedan and hatch.

    • On the sedans released there is a rear windscreen chrome surround and chrome door handles were also available on the GXE/Ti models (series 1).

    • The BMW E30 and Skyline R32 rear spoiler fits without modification.

    • The Japanese model n13 black headlights are easily swapped over and are a major improvement over the grey ones.

    • The Japanese model side corner indicators are a direct swap into the Australian model.

    • Langley tail lights are a likeness to the Nissan skyline rocket style tail lights (rare) and the Langley front grill and rear garnish is an improvement from the stock ones.

    • Factory body kits produced include the sv1800 or Formula style Holden Astra body kit, Select European and Japanese N13's with the CA engine came with factory side skirts (GTi and ZX in Europe, Milano and Liberta Villa in Japan), as well as 4 different front bars (Langley, Pulsar S1, Pulsar S2 (fog lights) and Pulsar S2 (without lights).

    • Front indicator/park lights from a late model n12 front bar are the same as the n13 and easier to get from the wreckers or clear lenses that come from an 82 model Holden Barina / Suzuki Swift fit also can be found at the wreckers.

    • The 89 model Honda Prelude (4 wheel steer model) has a black plastic front lip; this is a direct bolt up the n13.

    • Mx6 turbo front lower lip bolts up directly to the front bar.

    • The small coloured strip that runs through the front and rear bumper came in blue, red, grey and a black/chrome combo. The strip can be swapped between cars, as it just clips in. However keep in mind the hatch rear bumper strips won’t fit the length of the sedan bumper.

    Headlight Globes:

    • Navara artic blue H4 and Philips Crystal Vision Globes.

    Rims and Tyres:

    • 16 inch rims with 205/40's will most likely be 45+ offset.

    • A +offset moves the wheel closer to the car and a -offset moves the wheel away from the car.

    • Guard rolling is when you get the piece of metal on the inside of your guards is folded up so it doesn't scrape the tyres. It can be done at a panel beaters or you can try it yourself with a rag and a mallet (be gentle).

    • Go to a tyre dealer when getting new rims to check the best offset and profile tyre. If you plan to lower it make sure you let them know.


    • Procedure for rust removal:
    1) Chip back the bubbled paint that is over the rust.
    2) Use Deoxodine (rust converter) to convert the rust back to a metal and stop it progressing.
    3) Sand back with a fine grade paper.
    4) Use fish oil (let it soak in).
    5) Spray area with a gimlet or similar.
    6) Sand again with a very fine grade
    7) Use a pressure pack that is matched to the paint or a spray gun with paint and respray the area.

    • A very common place for an n13 to rust is inside the front guards.
    1) Unbolt the bottom of the front guards from underneath the mudflap. this will give the panel enough mobility so that u can pull it back and clean out the inside of the guard at the bottom.
    2) Pull the guard away from the car (without using too much force and bending the panel)
    3) Use toothbrush or similar to brush out the bottom of the guard
    4) While brushing, hose out the muck you loosen from inside.
    The problem is that the vents between the windscreen and the bonnet have a drainage setup designed to run all water from there out through the side of the car and out the bottom of the guard, when dirt and leaves etc. wash down the vents they become stuck and build up.

    Replacement Parts:

    • There are replacement new seals (where the top of the door meets the window) available, 12 different styles for the trims of the N13. The N13 (Nissan) seals are a better quality than the Australian Holden parts.

    • SSS Decals, available from the PGA website.

    • Via the wreckers a brand new genuine Nissan front bar can be brought as well as a replacement of the re-enforcement behind the front bar.


    • Brand new genuine Nissan Front Bar: $132.00.
    • Second-hand re-enforcement for front bar: $30.
    • Rolling guards $50 (each guard).
    • Front wheel bearing: $45.
    • Replacement new seals: $40.
    • Holden Barina/Suzuki Swift clear lenses: $40.



    • Nismo LSD available for the n13 VLSD box, part no. is 38420-RS250.

    • Nismo or X-Racing short shifter kit can be fitted.

    • Sr20 HD pressure plate, with an 18LE heavy duty clutch, allows for the clamping power of heavy duty, while being light on the foot.

    • NSK 6921 - includes an Exedy NSC573 clutch cover, R8475W clutch plate and a NTN bearing (FCR48-23-6/2E).

    • A reconditioned gearbox includes all new bearings and synchros, perhaps a new control unit.

    • The LSD is a sealed unit in the N13, called viscous LSD.

    The Different Types of LSD:

    • Viscous is one (very common) non-locking type, good for street, long service life with no special requirement for fluids or maintenance, over time it will wear out and the whole diff centre assembly will need replacing.

    • Torsion (torque sensing) is another non-locking torque transfer diff; again no special repairs/service needs to be done with this diff over time. This type of LSD is stock on some cars like Integra Type-R and Mitsubishi EVO.

    • Mechanical/Cable/Clutch type diffs "lock" the 2 wheels when under load. These diffs have "plates" that wear out like a clutch and need to be serviced and maintained. Available in different types that will lock only on acceleration, or on both acceleration and deceleration. They require LSD oil. Most often used for Drifting/racing due to the positive locking effect they have that generates excellent grip.


    • Daiken heavy duty clutch.

    • Basic Exedy heavy duty clutch or a more serious Exedy 5 puck ceramic button clutch.


    • Castrol VMX 80

    • Neo gear oil (especially for the LSD gearboxes).

    • Nulon G70 (gear oil additive). G70 should only really be used to slightly extend the life of an old gearbox before servicing it. It will make shifting a little easier and more fluent.


    • Nismo LSD: $1650.
    • Standard clutch: $240.
    • Non LSD gearbox: $250 (with driveshafts).
    • Exedy 5 puck ceramic button clutch: $400.
    • Reconditioned standard non-LSD:$800 (installed with a swappable unit)
    • Reconditioned Aus-spec LSD: $1000 (installed with a swappable unit).
    • Used Aus-spec LSD: $500 - $600.
    • Used Jap-spec LSD: $400 - $500 (smaller gear ratios, zippy around the city).


    *If you're going to do any head work, you will have to get a complete Valve Re-grind Set (VRS). With A VRS you get all the gaskets and seals you would need to remove the head and replace it, including head gasket, inlet and exhaust gasket, valve stem seals, cam seal, cam cover gasket, distributor O-ring and exhaust flange gasket.*

    Camira Head and Cams:

    • The JD cam has a fair bit of overlap (opens valves for longer), so it isn't suited for boost, although for N/A install a JD Camira MPFI cam, and tune the ECU. With fitting a JD PFI cam, there is a need to slot the end for the distributor drive and tune for the ECU

    • A 3mm trim from a JE Camira head and N13 18LE head can be done managing a 10:1-10.5:1 compression. The difference is JE head has slightly bigger valves, but the basic geometry is very similar to the 18LE with the exception of the camshaft.


    • To rebuild a head with higher compression, Crow make stiffer valve springs. Standard rockers are fine, although there are aftermarket ones (USA). Same deal with valves, there fine. Higher compression means new lifters and also new head bolts, and a good head gasket, possibly copper (recommend ACL).

    • Kent Fast Road, Camtech or Crow Cams have cams for the 18LE, stage 1, 2 and 3.

    • Or alternatively do not to buy a brand name cam, spending more money but instead buy a billet cam and have it ground to the same specifications. For Example here is a Pulsar cam from a well known company:
     VALVE TIMING: EXIT: 75/20 IN: 22/74
     DURATION: 275, 275
     VALVE LIFT: .416", .416"
     POWER RANGE: 2000RPM - 7500RPM
    • This is mild performance cam for modified street engine and with the valve lift, duration and timing a billet cam can be ground to these exact specifications.

    • Adjustable cam gears are available, they used to be available from PGA, unsure now, do a search.


    • Port-match the head and clean out the burs a little, nothing to serious. Get the head refaced on the top and bottom (shave bottom for more compression if you like), also replace the valve guides and get the head compression tested.
    Specifications for Head:
    1) Cut inlet valves and seats with 30 degree angle.
    2) Cut exhaust valves and seats with 30 degree top and 45 degree seat.
    3) Smooth 8 ports short side radius and seats.


    • Oil Breather Hose: $10.
    • Head Rebuild: $350-$500.
    • Head Shave: $200.
    • Cam Reground: $150.
    • Head Bolts: $40-$70.
    • Iridium Sparkplugs: $80.
    • Early JD Camira Camshaft and Adjustable Gear: $150.
    • Rocker Arms, Thrust Pads and Tappets: $110.
    • Line Boring of Cam Box and Fitting of Cam: $50.
    • Cam Gear and Throttle Cable Bracket Chrome Plated: $40.
    • The JD Camira PFI cam-$40-$80 (wreckers).
    • Cut Inlet Valves and Seats with 30 degree angle/cut Exhaust Valves and Seats with 30 degree top and 45 seat: $125.
    • Smooth 8 Ports Short Side Radius and Seats: $125.
    • Reface Head: $65 (square and flat).
    • Standard Rocker Arms: $20 ea (from Holden).
    • Billet Cam: $200-$400.
    • VRS Kit: $80-$120.
    • Kent Fast Road Cam FR32: $560



    • Both the 16LF and the 18LE have the same ECM (the Delco 1227808) but they have different Memcal programming.

    • For the cost of the after market Memcal you could equip yourself with everything you need to tune the car yourself (EPROM burner, notebook, software, electronics, EPROMs) and revise the tune daily if you wanted to but meaning a lot of learning.


    • Wolf 3d v4 plug-in, Unichip, Kalmaker Delco, Microtech mt8 ECU (fully reprogrammable), HP Racing ECU, Power Chip (Gold), Motec ECU have all been used in a 18LE N13 by users within PGA.

    • Unichip is dyno tuned to you particular car with its individual mods. With the chip fitted and tuned for 98 octane fuel you could get a genuine 10-15kw gain, the down side is obviously cost.

    • Kalmaker Delco ECU. They are reprogrammable. A complete Kalmaker package allows complete control over the ECU, and is a great tuning tool available for the 18LE. With the Kalmaker system you have control over fuel and ignition maps and the programming of the computers drivers and controllers can be set up to perform different functions, like boost control and water injection, can be controlled by the ECU in relation to operating parameters. As the Kalmaker uses a MAP sensor it frees up the air-intake system. The chip is purchase pre-installed into the ECU and it is sent to you as a complete unit. It is then fully programmable to anything you want pretty much via laptop access and all the controls are at your finger tips. More information can be found on the website http://www.amberleyautos.com.au/KALMAKER.htm


    • 27C256 EPROM: $10.
    • Unichip: $1200 (fitted and tuned with dyno sheets)
    • Microtech mt8: $1200
    • Kalmaker Delco ECU: $1100


    Piping, Mufflers and Cannons:

    • 2' mandrel bent seems to be the optimal size for the 18LE or 2.25'' press bent.

    • DRFT Cannon or Apexi Cannon catback exhaust - Awesome sound.

    • With a cannon use an 18 inch resonator as it makes the exhaust note absolutely perfect.

    • Lukey, Magnaflow or Redback straight through sports muffler.

    • Mild steel exhaust, 18inch resonator, and 20inch (long) cannon with 5inch barrel and 4inch tip.

    • The factory cat is large enough not to have a major impact on the flow or a VN cat can be used for a bit more flow.

    • Dynoed before/after. Adding extractor's, high flow 2.25" cat, 2.25" piping, 12" resonator and a polished stainless steel muffler (2.5" internals), gave a 7 kw at the wheels gain or Wildcat Extractors and 2 inch Exhaust gives a gain of 10kw (other members figures).


    • Walker (Lukey) extractors, part no. LPH720P can be brought from Repco, AutoBarn, or Coventry's etc.

    • Hytech extractors.

    • Wild Cat extractors.

    • SSS/SVD extractors

    • Motavator extractors.

    • Ceramic coated headers keeps the heat in engine bay down and spreads heat evenly along the headers which is better.

    • Hurricane extractors flow rate is very similar to a stock manifold.


    • Sports muffler: $150.
    • Motavator extractors: $250
    • 2" stainless sports exhaust system, resonator and cannon: $300.
    • Wild Cat extractors: $270
    • Wildcat Extractors and 2 inch exhaust: $480
    • Mangaflow straight through muffler s/steel: $300.

    Comments by Mika
    The only difference with GTi-R brake setups is you must fit the left caliper to the right hand side of the n13 and the right caliper to the
    left hand side That is only for the rear calipers off a GTiR.

    The only setup to fit in n13 14 inch rims are the N14 2ltr brakes ie. sss brakes.

    They can be fit up with n13 SSS rims if you grind back a few mm off the leading edge of the caliper

    On the GXE and Ti released there was a chrome moulding surround for the side of the car, incorporating the gutter strip
    (clips on along the top of the door shuts to redirect water run off from the roof), rear vent panels which sit
    behind the rear door shuts, and the rubber moulds that run along the bottom of the windows where they meet the door.
    Both the gutter strip and rear vent panels can only be found on the hatch but the window rubber/chrome moulds are the same
    in size on both the sedan and hatch.

    Only on Series One models. It was removed from the S2 as a cost cutting measure. The rear vent on the hatch is NEVER factory chrome.

    The japanese model n13 black headlights are easily swapped over and are a major improvement over the grey ones. these
    headlights were also found in the series one sss and q models as well as some of the lower range models.

    The langleys actually have a poorer light distribution that the Aus spec Hella items. They were NEVER available on aus models, but were commonly used by panel shops as cheap genuine replacement parts in the mid '90's to early '00's as the cars in japan were subject to the "10 year ruling"

    Limited amount of factory body kits produced. Include: sv1800 holden astra body kit, 2 different versions of nissan factory
    side skirts (one on the australian model and one on the jap model), as well as a japanese model front bar lip.

    Holden made two types of skirt, being the "SV1800/Aero" style and the "Formula" style. Nissan Australia released no bodykit bits other than SSS and Q spoilers. Only one style of jap spec skirt and 4 different front bars (Langley, Pulsar S1, Pulsar S2 with foggies and Pulsar S2 without fogs).

    European and Japanese N13's with the CA engine (88-90) came with factory side skirts.

    Only select models, such as the GTi and ZX in Europe, and the Milano (which also came with the E series motor) and Liberta Villa in Japan.

    Nismo LSD apparently available for the n13 VLSD box

    It is. Part number is 38420-RS250

    Ca18 and n13 g/box's are interchangable maybe an option is to get a nismo lsd and par gearset fitted to a ca18 g/box.
    just not sure how the ratios would collaborate?

    You cannot use the Nismo LSD in the 1.8L exa box. It uses a larger diff. THe CA18 gearbox is an RS5F50A box with hydraulic clutch setup, while the 18le box is RS5F31A (or V for VLSD equipped boxes). SO basically, they will bolt up to the 18le but it will involve fitting the hydraulic clutch setup as well(master and slave cylinder, lines, clutch pedal, blah, blah). The only option I can think of is to get the bellhousing and hydro setup off the Exa and use a Diff out of a U12 trx.

    Used Jap-spec LSD ~$400 - $500 (dont get japspec)

    Why not? Works well with the 18LE. It's a bit zippier through traffic. Polyurathane bushes are also interchangable n13 to n14

    Some are, some aren't. You can't go out and get a bush kit for an n14 and expect it all to fit the n13...and it wont! Dont put on an aftermarket front swaybar in the N13 as it will rip and crack the chassis rails and mounting points,
    the chassis is really weak at the front all that is needed is rear swaybar, front and rear strut braces.

    Eh? Has this happened to anyone before and can they attribute it to the swaybar alone or is it caused by general wear and or prior accidents?