View Full Version : Hydraulic clutch actuator arm

09-05-2016, 05:52 PM
Currently collecting all the bits to convert my N14 clutch to a hydraulic setup, just after confirmation that the part number is 30520-3J10B to fit the RS5F32A gearbox and can I order this through Nissan or am i better off sourcing from elsewhere?

09-05-2016, 06:40 PM
Part number is correct. Highly doubt there are any aftermarket options so Nissan or a genuine supplier (e.g. amayama) would be your best bet.

For others looking for part numbers for the hydraulic conversion, there's a list here: http://pulsar.org.au/forums/content.php?177-Hydraulic-Clutch-Conversion

09-05-2016, 06:55 PM
Awesome! Thanks for that Paullus, I'll give Nissan a buzz tomorrow and order through them.

09-05-2016, 08:17 PM
You could also try sss automotive if your in Syd or other Jap wreckers. I sourced one off a box at sss auto, he didn't mind taking it off as he sells it with the box anyway. Hope this helps !

SSS33U boosted N15

10-05-2016, 01:33 PM
I also recommend replacing the sleeve bushing inside the gearbox that the arm rotates inside of as well as the seal that stops water getting into the box from where the rod goes through. The seal needs to be removed to get the bushing out and is often damaged. The bushing is teflon lined and usually rubbed through to the copper/bronze backing, that's why i replace them and they're also not expensive.

Don't forget to leave out the return spring upon reassembly. The hydraulic system uses a softer spring, so if you use the cable spring on the actuator arm it will cause problems with possibly having to pump the clutch pedal.

19-05-2016, 11:36 AM
Forgive my ignorance, but what benefits will you get by doing this?

I'm on my second clutch cable, and it is as smooth as…


19-05-2016, 11:58 AM
You don't drive your car enough Phil !

Especially when adding a heavy duty clutch, the pedal gets quite firm/stiff and often scratchy/rough feeling. Hydraulic setup allows for lower pedal pressure, no chance of snapping a cable (although you can blow a hydraulic seal instead) but generally more reliable pedal feel over the life of the clutch as it never needs adjustment. Ive had a hydraulic clutch setup in my car for over 250,000km now and its probably one of the best upgrades i've ever done.

30-05-2016, 02:08 PM
You don't drive your car enough Phil !

Hi Cozzm0, You know me well…

Yup, only doing about 50 klicks per week (one run per week) = 200 klicks a month.


30-05-2016, 02:14 PM
Hi Cozzm0, You know me well…

Yup, only doing about 50 klicks per week = 200 a month.


I did 200k's before lunch today. LOL.

16-02-2020, 12:21 AM
Does any one have a link to step by step instructions and/or photos of doing the hydraulic clutch conversion?

16-02-2020, 07:12 AM
Is there any particular part that you’re having trouble with ?

16-02-2020, 10:51 AM
Hi Cozzmo, good to see there are afew of us still driving around in the pulsar from the old days of PGA.
Other day my shifter in my N14 sss S2 with no notice just stopped letting me select any gears apart from 5th, so m replacing it with a low km N15 sss box I got off Ricky Helmets (car_fanatica)(remn15) & Paul Carter (Blitz).
I also got of Paul parts for the hydraulic conversion but it's been so long since he did his on his det greenN15 sss (DETN15) he can't remember how the actuators and slave set up went.
He gave me
Gtir clutch pedal (& a U13)
Master from a gtir & a U13
Gtir slave
New Actuator arm

He remembers the u13 master works well as more compact than the gtir.

So really need pic etc of how the slave and actuator arm is set up on the box.
I read your comment about renewing the sleeve bushing so I'll do that and you talked about not using the return cable spring what spring do you recommend please and any other tips you could think of.

16-02-2020, 11:07 AM
GTI-R slave is useless, you need an N16 slave for this along with the ~10mm spacer plate that goes between the gearbox and the slave cylinder.

I used RNN14 master and pedal personally.

The actuator arm can only sit in one logical place once its fitted to the release bearing carrier, that is with the top sitting over the hump on the top of the gearbox, the Slave then bolts to where the cable support arm bolted to, facing towards the engine block.

Makes sure you clean and grease all contact surfaces.

You do not need a return spring on the hydro setup at all, it doesn't need it.

i'm sorry i don't have any pictures of the parts fitted handy.

16-02-2020, 12:19 PM
Cheers for the quick replies.
He did give me a 10mm spacer for the slave I could be wrong with what the slave came out off, it won't let me put up pics but the markings on it say Nanco japan, D XJ. If that makes sense to you at all.

That makes more sense of how all of it sits now looking at the box and parts in hand.
OK so remove return spring altogether.
Cheers for that.

Also I'm trying to remember with the N15 sss box into N14 swap was it just the speedometer which needs to be swapped over?

I remember back in 2003 when I first joined the forum was very informative and we had all of this info in great step by step blogs I used it so much, it's a shame what happened and having to be rebuild it but you guys are doing such a great job well done.

16-02-2020, 03:59 PM
Yeh just swap the speedo sensor over and that’s all.

It will never be what it once was despite the guy having the data at he won’t ever give it up.

16-02-2020, 08:14 PM
That's a shame but cheers for your help and also keeping this great forum open and running

18-02-2020, 05:57 PM
Does anyone know of somewhere who sells spare parts/ oil seals for the N14/N15 sss gear box?
Nissan are saying everything has to come from Japan and can take from 1-4 months if Japan even have any in stock and you can't find that out until you put the order in.
*I'm after a selector shaft oil seal
(Nissan say they come in pack of 5 to their shop and have to pay for all 5 $20 each)
*sleeve bearing and seal for the actuator

18-02-2020, 07:45 PM
Coastmodz or Amayama

29-03-2020, 04:28 PM
Called another Nissan dealership in SA the other week to get part numbers and got an old fella in the parts department who was super keen to help. He was able to get all the seals etc for me from Nissan dealerships on the East Coast of OZ with no shipping cost etc. I have all numbers etc which I will post up in a write up after I have done the swap.

29-03-2020, 04:31 PM
Only question I have is how did people find the best way join the master and slave together. via
solid to flex hose
flex hose all the way?

29-03-2020, 07:34 PM
I used the factory RNN14 hardline, but many have used a flex hose, required just over 1M depending on how you route it and if you go direct to the slave or use the stock rubber hose on the slave.

30-03-2020, 04:50 PM
Cheers for that