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View Full Version : My SR20VE/32V Build. Pictures, Part Numbers and Practical advise .



sss4me
21-10-2015, 09:04 PM
This is the 2nd version of my build, which has spanned 3 years. The first bit the dust with the fold of the PGA forum last year, so i'll take the opportunity to expand on a few things now with the new forum in place, and maybe make it a little more general for those guys who wish to follow, or simply need part numbers, or advise.

Dec 2013... bought a low k sr20ve and vzr 32v gearbox.
922
923

previous owner had fitted n1 cams, but didn't get around to starting it. n1 cam part numbers are 13020-1N519 and 13020-1N521.

924

i see a few people ask "how do i identify if i got n1 cams or not. these next two images may help.

925
926

SR20VE
Red on the intake
Mauve on the exhaust


SR16VE
Green on the intake
Beige on the exhaust

N1
Orange on the intake
Green on the exhaust

i figure the easiest way is measure the hi-cam intake lobe. its 39.4mm lobe is almost 1mm bigger than a sr20ve one

sss4me
21-10-2015, 09:26 PM
i went with a Fidanza flywheel. part number 143201. its slightly heavier sister is 143621, and has a different tooth count (108 vrs 109), both will work perfectly fine with our pulsars, no need to worry about engine lights, unlike the americans. 228501 is the number for the replacement insert.
1689


there are many alternates to these. some people might prefer a heavier one in a daily driven car, as the lighter ones can get touchy with light throttle applications.

SR16VE Rocker cover. part number 13264-1N500

1690

alternates are n1 (red, hard to get) to the 20v one (black, with centre insert)

i was maybe the first guy in australia to pick up the new Nismotronic SA daughterboard to use in my n15 sss ecu. i use the left-over EGR loom plug to switch the both cams and the same time with the vvl, the huge range of basemaps and the great service offered by John Kerr were also contributing factors. newer models now feature flex-fuel and bluetooth connection.

1691

sss4me
21-10-2015, 09:45 PM
Genuine N1 pistons and rings were bought before the big price hike. these were notched to clear the oil squirters. part number a2010-1n521.
1692
these are available oversize too
1693
Rings. part number 12033-2j210

1694
my time again, i would probably choose a forged piston. thicker skirts and no extra machining to be done.

sss4me
21-10-2015, 09:56 PM
there are some good picks off a p12 20v motor if your lucky enough. the sump, oil pickup and dipstick will add 0.7 litre's to a p11's oil capacity. the harmonic balancer is a little better than the p11, and the a/c bracket is heaps lighter and nicer than the p11 one

1695
i decided on Front and rear prothane mounts. unless your turbo, or your old side mounts are stuffed, this is all you will probably need. be warned but, your car will develop rattles and vibrations you never thought could be so bad, at least for a few weeks.

1696

new rocker cover seals. part numbers 13271-2j201 and 13270-2j201. good for de and ve.

1697
ARP flywheel bolts, part number 102-2803. VVL Solenoid gasket , part number 13270-1n500. IACV gasket , part number 23785-2j200. New style chain tensioner, part number 13070-2j203, and gasket, part number 13079-2j200. Q45 throttle body gasket 16175-61u00. front oil seal, part number 13501-53j10 , rear oil seal, part number 12279-AD205.
http://i.imgur.com/OaoCuD1l.jpg

universal heater hose. dayco 80416. this one replaces your too-small standard de one, and works a treat.
http://i.imgur.com/gK0ay4Xl.jpg

sss4me
21-10-2015, 10:23 PM
7-layer vet exhaust gasket , part number 14036-8h600.( the business). n15 thermostat , part number 21200-0c811. sr20ve rotor head , part number 22157-1n510. sr20 timing chain , part number a302h-53j0cvw. injector o-rings.

http://i.imgur.com/89zALj3l.jpg
gktech water adapter (removed the neck). used this for my water temp sender for my defi gauges. listed as rwd, removing the neck makes it fwd compatible

http://i.imgur.com/91JnTBql.jpg

new head bolts , part number 11056-53j01
http://i.imgur.com/IFB4l3bl.jpg

sr20ve dizzy cap , part number 22162-1n511

http://i.imgur.com/F1244j8l.jpg

sss4me
21-10-2015, 10:23 PM
i decided on ACL race bearings with 5 hole mains/17mm rod, for the standard rods. part numbers 1T296, 5M2975H , 4B2960H

http://i.imgur.com/yIkXbCBl.jpg
new water pump , part number 21010-53j05. my time again, i would find the sr16ve n1 version with the thinner blades.

http://i.imgur.com/dLOtggpl.jpg
chose the extra ribbed b15 oil pump , part number 13500-6M00A.

http://i.imgur.com/ie366dfl.jpg
note that the 3 different ve oil pumps have the same gears. its just the ribbing thats different.

933

sss4me
21-10-2015, 10:37 PM
Tomei cam gears for the n1's, part number 13024r310. light and strong.

http://i.imgur.com/Ptx5t9vl.jpg
defi dins for the dash. you will need a 150psi oil gauge if you own a ve. mine regularly see's 9 bar (130+psi) when its revving. care also must be taken not to jump on hi-cam when the oils still cold. the pressure can cause the vvl solenoids to leak

http://i.imgur.com/7eLxLF2l.jpg

i-shift rev shift gauge for the dash
http://i.imgur.com/FHnHyGZl.jpg

i choose ingrams engineering in wagga to do the short block assembly. clean, polish crank, light hone. notch the pistons, balance and assemble to spec.
http://i.imgur.com/Iin88J0l.jpg

sss4me
21-10-2015, 10:51 PM
new vvl solenoid block , part number 23796-1N51B

http://i.imgur.com/4NF6r5ll.jpg

Nismotronic's preferred wideband is the Innovate mtx-l. currently looking at the 4.9 sensor for mine.

http://i.imgur.com/hp2fdUpl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/WOltJb9l.jpg

new knock sensor , part number 22030-30P00. nismotronic lets you adjust its value before it will trigger. thats great!
http://i.imgur.com/OJdiaEYl.jpg

Metal head gasket , part number 11044-8H600. turns out this is actually 1.1mm thick, 0,1mm thinner than the paper oem one.
http://i.imgur.com/Cde94Iol.jpg

the standard head gasket part number is 11044-1n500

sss4me
21-10-2015, 10:56 PM
new sump pan , part number 1111-02J210
http://i.imgur.com/X4BvFyTl.jpg
hydro clutch kit for the 32v gearbox

30610-54c50 master cylinder
30674-3j100 slave cylinder spacer kit
46550-54c00 clutch assembly
46540-0m910 clutch pedal
30617-4m40a oil reservoir
30856-2n501 brake hose
30620-2j00a slave cylinder assembly
30855-2j005 slave cylinder hose
16439-v5000 hose clamps x2
30520-3j10b actuator arm

http://i.imgur.com/wFEGSMSl.jpg

you will also need a braided line or hard line from the master to the slave (1mtr long)

sss4me
21-10-2015, 11:09 PM
i picked up a ported standard valve head from marsh tuning in the states, and had jamie port the n1/xcessive plenum to suit. has bc springs and retainers (now). i welded an iacv adapter to the bottom of it.
http://i.imgur.com/qwf3iell.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/fl6LlQFl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/i0Wz1eJl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Y84ackJl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/QFWIeLrl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/sjtJaW7l.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/hKM8kqQl.jpg

sss4me
21-10-2015, 11:16 PM
pten developments supplied the near new q45 throttle body for it



939
940
941

sss4me
21-10-2015, 11:19 PM
gearbox time

Mfactory helical diff and 4.78 final drive.


http://i.imgur.com/N6fszKQl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/OzFLLpZl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/662b2NRl.jpg

the first design diff didnt fit. we made it fit

http://i.imgur.com/oxuISTMl.jpg

welded up the gearbox casing for reinforcement in a known weak spot for cracking

http://i.imgur.com/wCBnj9Vl.jpg

sss4me
21-10-2015, 11:31 PM
not my photo but notice the mirrored gears of the mfactory final drive compared to the oem one

http://i.imgur.com/uvpYvVel.jpg

new bearings and seals. part numbers 38342-8E001 , 38342-8E002 , 38440-D2100AU.

http://i.imgur.com/AP23qu4l.jpg

The big bearing, P.I.T.A. to get. part number 31408-31x08.
http://i.imgur.com/HAYczCOl.jpg

sss4me
21-10-2015, 11:35 PM
xtreme organic clutch
http://i.imgur.com/tXTnD7Bl.jpg
gearbox back together. hydro clutch in.
http://i.imgur.com/jsfE6zql.jpg



i pretty good guide to the diff transplant is found here. http://pulsar.org.au/forums/showthread.php?249-Installing-MFactory-helical-differential-in-a-RS5F32V

sss4me
21-10-2015, 11:44 PM
oem sr20ve spark plugs leads , part number 22440-1N510


http://i.imgur.com/f6BM0aml.jpg
xcessive thermal spacer


solenoid caps and wiring. from http://www.wiringspecialties.com/

942

some rev/speed photos with 4.78 final and 205/40x17 tyres
http://i.imgur.com/Vt3uZoDl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/242aUm6l.jpg

sss4me
21-10-2015, 11:49 PM
some assembly photos of it all going together

http://i.imgur.com/OYqDIRdl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/UwUj75xl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/IostLz4l.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/YWsqIszl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/LEqgLdul.jpg


ishy johnson crank scraper

http://i.imgur.com/91mOR9Rl.jpg

sss4me
21-10-2015, 11:52 PM
removed the waxstat and spring on the q45 t/b. it cold idles at 1500rpm and idles at 950 without this. will idle higher with it still attached
http://i.imgur.com/99TajYIl.jpg
out with the old

http://i.imgur.com/KIxZc3Pl.jpg

sss4me
21-10-2015, 11:56 PM
and...

http://i.imgur.com/EPjo6zdl.jpg

in!

http://i.imgur.com/VzvqZYel.jpg

after 3 hours frustration with clogged injectors, it actually run.

sss4me
22-10-2015, 12:12 AM
walbro pump time. i ended up with a 342. some pictures to help you choose.

http://i.imgur.com/UBYE8V1l.jpg

got some 370cc injectors from brendan @ pten

http://i.imgur.com/TZ6VhnUl.jpg

Spectrix
22-10-2015, 02:05 AM
Wow, epic build documentation. Looking forward to seeing more of this :)

Leroy Peterson
22-10-2015, 07:58 AM
This build always makes things look easy [emoji14]
Nice addition including what you would change... We'd have some amazing cars if we could re-do things

sss4me
22-10-2015, 10:15 PM
exhaust time.

i have covered quite a few header options in this thread. http://pulsar.org.au/forums/showthread.php?248-Sr20ve-header-options

initially my exhaust set up was some ssac's, a press bent 2 1/2 system with lukey/walker 17733 rear muffler. worked ok. changed it all up to current spec, some custom made 23" 4-1's from protech fabrication in the states, with a couple of good resonators and an apexi ws-2 rear muffler, in a mandrel bent 3" system. some pics

http://i.imgur.com/cGySwsLl.jpg

coating the headers not only looks the goods (wrapping is ugly imo) , it has reduced the under bonnet temps, whilst holding the exhaust heat in better on the inside of it. hotter gases= faster flow.

the exhaust flange has been cut into 4, to reduce shipping costs and eliminate the possibility of a warped flange.
http://i.imgur.com/IaiUPRsl.jpg
if your wondering why the 2 1/4" choke point is there, its been proved to increase output (exhaust harmonics) as well as extend the peak hp point further past its max. def works too.

sss4me
22-10-2015, 10:33 PM
small flexi, 100cell cat converter, vibrant super quiet resonator

http://i.imgur.com/n7AehQhl.jpg
another 18" resonator attached to the over axle pipe. 3" pipe is really hard to get right there

http://i.imgur.com/fJQxfe3l.jpg

apexi ws-2 just fits.

http://i.imgur.com/iRjQPI3l.jpg

946
947

edit time!! since this time i replace the xforce resonator with a magnaflow 5" centre muffler. the real trick for a quieter drone free and great sounding exhaust is the fill in the centre section with really good resonators/mufflers. rear muffler is not so vitally important, as long as it flows well.
http://i.imgur.com/Z1RPDTJl.jpg

sss4me
22-10-2015, 10:45 PM
so i done a 2 virtual dyno runs to illustrate the difference the headers and system made.

before 120kw
http://i.imgur.com/VlgPq4c.jpg
after 140kw
http://i.imgur.com/uUAnpQV.jpg

most importantly, you will see i lost NOTHING going to the bigger system and 4-1 headers. gains right through, stronger in the mid range, and huge increase after 6k.

i also used a i-phone app called "decibel 10th" to compare inside and outside noise levels. the new system wasn't that much louder, and most importantly it is pretty drone-free inside. you can talk.



ended up at chequered tuning in melbourne. trent had it to 145kw pretty quickly.playing with the cam gears made no difference, 3hrs later.

http://i.imgur.com/tCkyD9k.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/2hitDI3.jpg

video of a run.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5x1k6-qm7Jk

sss4me
22-10-2015, 11:09 PM
most good ve's will push 220-ish psi on a compression gauge. i figure my motor's compression is around the 13-1 mark, with the n1 pistons and metal head gasket.

http://i.imgur.com/HDX7kb3.jpg
disappointed not to get any increase with the cam gears, and after a quick word to jamie marsh, i decided to purchase some more lift

http://i.imgur.com/ynQfhsF.jpg
my findings are documented in this thread. http://pulsar.org.au/forums/showthread.php?230-SR20VE-cam-lift-figures-The-real-numbers-explained
http://i.imgur.com/PKfXEgz.jpg

replaced the standard retainers with some titanium ones from b.c to cater to the increased lift and the extra retainer to valve stem seal clearance needed.

http://i.imgur.com/8mFLHHp.jpg
kelfords required a re-shim. found the intake clearance too tight.

sss4me
22-10-2015, 11:38 PM
back at ingram engineering, they had some pretty cool tools to replace the retainers. using air to hold the valves up, this compresses the spring
http://i.imgur.com/jrffm2a.jpg


leverage provided by

http://i.imgur.com/MrhQUY9.jpg

which screws on top to this, which screws into the spark plug hole

http://i.imgur.com/y5XOxP7.jpg

so hows the idle you ask. its stockish. click the photo.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7BDJKC_CPQ

and here's a video of the earlier dyno run.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5x1k6-qm7Jk

more to come.

Boosted VLAD
21-11-2015, 10:36 AM
Very nice :)


I would love to drive it and just hit this bit of the power curve :p

1039

sss4me
21-11-2015, 03:21 PM
update time. my motor fell victim to a fake walbro pump. hopefully its done no lasting damage. the below photo's may help others in the future
http://i.imgur.com/Op9iUa6.jpg

fake pump

http://i.imgur.com/xdX1iIy.jpg
real pump

http://i.imgur.com/AAy3ek2.jpg

shipped the car down to trent at chequered tuning, to revise the tune for the new cams. got good news and bad news. the good news was solid improvements in much on the range below 7100. the bad news is it hits a brick wall after this. this led to a 3kw loss from there on. once again, playing with the cam gears made no difference.

http://i.imgur.com/FJ8nn96.jpg
here's a video of it. kelfords sound like hi-cam everywhere now

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UBos9YDhRwY

sss4me
21-11-2015, 04:08 PM
in an effort to increase the kelfords top end, i decided to change the intake to a shorter, bigger diameter runner gato intake with some top feed's
http://i.imgur.com/UNsNsqC.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/UcCG31t.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/gYeuJcr.jpg

a seeing the budget is long blown, a got me an ati damper , some new standalone management
http://i.imgur.com/0mnl0Sd.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Vg0yKrI.jpg

Cozzm0
21-11-2015, 06:06 PM
Chasing more for what reason though mate? you've put a solid setup together, i just think spending THAT much more is going to be a disappointing venture. Good job on keeping with it though.

Boosted VLAD
21-11-2015, 07:39 PM
Sss4me, I'm with Cozzm0 on this one

The setup you have put together is very solid and very neat, people would love to have such a nice N15 with a motor and power curve like the one you have,

So here's my opinion:

You say you've already blown out of your budget,
So getting a new manifold, buying a standalone, having a full retune done and pouring much more money into it to get to some magical hp figure that you're not far off is probably not worth it, you will sacrifice just as much as what you will gain, all for some silly numbers the dyno spits out and not necessarily a better overall setup

You say you have done your research so if you genuinely think the manifold is what's stopping you from achieving your target then go ahead and replace it and just touch up the tune to suit it,
But adding a standalone and by the way your talking most likely changing other things too probably won't make it a better setup overall and will cost you a alot of money and there will always be something else that you will think you could have done better or something else you will want to buy and it will never end

I really like what you've done with the car and you should give yourself a pat on the back and be happy with it and go drive it and enjoy it :)

Leroy Peterson
22-11-2015, 06:08 AM
What was trents comments on your current ECU? Are the injectors nearing their flow limit?
I understand you wanting to get the most out of your (well thought out) system, but are you just chasing numbers or does it not feel as fast as you'd like?

With such a linear power band and high revving motor, I would think reducing rotating masses would be better bang for buck over fine tuning runners. Light weight pulleys, super light wheels, etc. (Though, not sure how much the runners would would actually cost)

Shameless plug: my powerfc is still available, cheaper and less wiring to complete than standalone.

gtir_woody
22-11-2015, 07:13 AM
Wow love all the photos, great read!

Cozzm0
22-11-2015, 09:56 AM
What was trents comments on your current ECU? Are the injectors nearing their flow limit?
I understand you wanting to get the most out of your (well thought out) system, but are you just chasing numbers or does it not feel as fast as you'd like?

With such a linear power band and high revving motor, I would think reducing rotating masses would be better bang for buck over fine tuning runners. Light weight pulleys, super light wheels, etc. (Though, not sure how much the runners would would actually cost)

Shameless plug: my powerfc is still available, cheaper and less wiring to complete than standalone.

His current nismotronic is closer to a standalone and has more features than the PowerFC unfortunately.

Leroy Peterson
22-11-2015, 10:24 AM
Shhhhh
[emoji14]

sss4me
22-11-2015, 11:31 AM
Chasing more for what reason though mate? you've put a solid setup together, i just think spending THAT much more is going to be a disappointing venture. Good job on keeping with it though.

thanks mate. main reason for continuing is that personally i'm not happy with the higher end, and i know it can be better. i could sense it on the dyno with the n1's. i think now i wrongly thought it was the cams, rather than the intake airflow, and the fact that advancing the intake cam made it worse, where in every other sr20ve it has made things better, was a warning something wasn't right.

putting the bigger cams in has made it great now below 7k, to the point where you can feel it squirming on the lsd, but has brought a quicker end to the power,just at the point where it the car it feel like its about to take off.

if the issue was electrical, trent would of been on it. something simple like maf or inj duty will stand out. its made power to 8300 with the n1's, and spun to 9k with no issues on multiple dyno's. so why now is it out of puff at 7k? kelford guessed "The earlier peak power could possibly be running out of head flow in the top end. The 184-C cams have more valve area than the N1's so it would make sense to hit the flow limit of the head earlier" that got me thinking, in light of jamie's statement about the head flowing more than 300hp on his stroker motor, that the restriction is in the intake. i guess i'll know soon enough.

thanks for the imput but guys, i appreciate the thought involved in this.

sss4me
19-01-2016, 11:22 PM
n15 sss de loom to ve dizzy wiring.excuse the doctors handwriting

1154
forgetting the colours, this is how the numbers run. pro tip is to label the wires if your doing it this way
1155
ve dizzy plug as viewed from the bottom!
1156
your current de wiring
1157

1158
you will find this resistor in your de loom near the dizzy, and it has to come out, because the ve dizzy has this already,internally. cut it out, and solder the wires together.
1167

sss4me
19-01-2016, 11:24 PM
tensions for the important parts of your build

1159
1160
1161

sss4me
19-01-2016, 11:31 PM
n15 sss ecu pinout.

1162
1163
1164
1165
1166

sss4me
20-01-2016, 11:47 AM
pipemax 398 is an interesting system for calculation of header and intake manifold dimensions. these are for ve intake manifolds. the first is a modded ve with n1 cams, and the second my sr20ve with 184c kelfords. there are 4.75inchs of flow in a ve head for reference. 3rd harmonic is best torque to hp combo. 2nd harmonic gives the highest torque , but lower peak rpm torque and hp numbers
n1's

http://i.imgur.com/jgKU7yv.jpg

184c's

http://i.imgur.com/fqRUuLg.jpg

sss4me
28-01-2016, 10:53 PM
1.2mm SR20 head gasket volume = 6.965cc (0.425 cu inch)
Deck clearance volume(stock value) = 0.737cc (0.045 cu inch)
SR Deck Height = 211.3mm

SR16VE piston crown volume = 9.6cc (0.586 cu inch)
SR16VE N1 piston crown volume = 7.5cc (0.457 cu inch)
SR16VE piston crown volume = 9.6cc (0.586 cu inch)
SR20VE piston crown volume = -4.6cc (-0.281 cu inch)
SR20VE 20V piston crown volume = -2.4cc (-0.146 cu inch)

SR16/20VE (inc. 20V) combustion chamber volume = 41.8cc (2.55 cu inch)
SR16VE N1 combustion chamber volume = 37.4cc (2.28 cu inch)


Connecting Rod Weights

OEM:
SR20DET - 621g (772g 19mm GTiR Rods)
RR20DE - 637g
SR16VE - 624g
SR20VE - 637g

Aftermarket:
Eagle - 530g
Tomei - 560g
Manley H-Beam - 512g
Manley I-Beam - 574g
Carillo Pro A-Beam - 511g
Brian Crower BC625+ - 580g
Brian Crower Sportsman - 579g
Brian Crower I-Beam - 587g

Crankshaft Weights



SR20VE 4CW - 14.3 Kg
SR20VE 20V - 17.2 Kg
SR20DE 8CW - 17.2 Kg
SR20DET RWD - 17.2 Kg
SR20DET FWD - 17.1 Kg

Piston Weights

OEM:
SR16VE - 331g
SR16VE.N1 - 341g
SR20DE - 410g
SR20DET - 480g

Aftermarket:
CP 90mm - 338g

Misc:
OEM Pins & Clips - 100g

FLYWHEELS.
N14/15-8.4KG
SR16VE-6.8KG
FIDANZA- 143621-4.6KG
143201-4.5KG
PAR- 4KG

sss4me
18-04-2016, 10:24 PM
some photo's of the gato going on.

http://i.imgur.com/pvowFYS.jpg

needed some arp bolts to fit it

http://i.imgur.com/A4TbCKj.jpg

cut to cut some to fit around the brake booster

http://i.imgur.com/d970a1m.jpg

sss4me
18-04-2016, 10:30 PM
iacv mounted to the underside

http://i.imgur.com/CCZTwJ2.jpg

had to make up a spacer for the t/b to open fully

http://i.imgur.com/0XEe9DD.jpg

all fitted...

http://i.imgur.com/RjTEQLK.jpg

sss4me
18-04-2016, 10:37 PM
After fitting it up, it wouldn't fire up. Freighted the car back to the tuners, and had the haltec fitted, and it finally fired up. At Chequered Tuning, and trent spent all day tuning and playing with the cam gears again, but the final results were no better than before (other than the sound) . with the shorter runners, the low down torque and hp was lower til 6k, without the hp being any better up high.

http://i.imgur.com/l3us43j.jpg

both the max torque and max hp rpm point was raised as the result ( i figure ) of the shorter runner manifold, however its a bit of a no tuning back point from there. if you are going to sacrifice a lot down low, big cams and lower final drive are gunna be needed to make use of the higher flowing manifold.

time for a few more mods to suit...

sss4me
18-04-2016, 10:48 PM
Courtesy of Brendan Parker (again) and Kiel @ Kelford cams has come some more upgrades.

http://i.imgur.com/AFCK7rR.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/jaMnArW.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/813Yg96.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/jW2qfIH.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/alHR4zY.jpg

fully ported head with +1 intake and exhaust valves, new guides,springs and retainers. 295cfm @ .550 lift

Cozzm0
19-04-2016, 04:24 PM
Shouldve bought the house instead man ! (seriously though, holy crap!!)

Leroy Peterson
20-04-2016, 09:49 AM
Very very nice.
Custom engine harness to ecu?
Can you just get a threaded type intake temp sensor and hook it up before the T/B?

Omega
20-04-2016, 12:35 PM
****'s serious down in the Griff!

sss4me
20-04-2016, 12:49 PM
Very very nice.
Custom engine harness to ecu?
Can you just get a threaded type intake temp sensor and hook it up before the T/B?

using a gtir harness for the haltec. tuner wants the air intake temp sensor in the plenum, so its easy enough to mount it there. got one from haltec to suit.

cozzmo and friends tell me to run the smallest yet hard (so it doesn't pinch/crimp) vacuum line back to the ecu for the map tuning. this will mount into the plenum as well.

Leroy Peterson
20-04-2016, 01:04 PM
Let us know what sort hose/line you use. I only hooked up a standard 4mm hose to suit the vacc ports at both ends, upgrading it would be a good idea

sss4me
20-05-2016, 12:14 AM
To compliment the new head, i have this time gone with a slightly smaller runnered gato intake, with a slightly higher fall into the head. purpose built for rhd applications

http://i.imgur.com/q63nZoc.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/KsZLrqL.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/RWwgypa.jpg

sss4me
20-05-2016, 01:12 AM
also have bruce @ protech knock me up some new headers. tri-step this time ( 1 3/4 - 1 7/8 - 2") over the same 23" primary length with the same 2 1/4 choke point.

great quote to remember " if you dont change the stroke (engine) you dont change the choke (header choke diameter)" 2 1/4 is it! for the sr20.

i recently put these headers on, after matching the ports to my new head. i think i may have lost a little down low again doing this, but confident the new setup will produce the top end i want

http://i.imgur.com/2VGsSrk.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/hlZqBD4.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/wV6it5T.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/LvUYcfa.jpg

they still have ok clearance for a 4-1 header too

http://i.imgur.com/VaNTBhf.jpg

sss4me
22-05-2016, 08:55 AM
Spring Pressure Talk To Make Life Easy
N1 SR16VE
Closed = 45 lb
Open = 150 lb
P11 SR20VE
Closed = 64 lb
Open = 145 lb
P12 20V
Closed = 47 lb
Open = 158 lb
P12 20V with P11 inner springs
Closed = 65 lb
Open = 200 lb
Supertech SPRK-2035-2022
Closed = 93 lb
Open = 187 lb
Supertech SPRK-H1022D-VE
Closed = 123 lb
Open = 238 lb
Supertech SPR-H1021D-VE ( way to stiff for everything don't buy )
Closed = 138 lb
Open = 270 lb
Brian Crower BC0240 kit with retainers ( just springs BC1030 )
Closed = 90 lb
Open = 220 lb

Kelford KVS10 SR20VE VALVE SPRING SET
85lb seat pressure at 37.00mm installed height. Coil bind is at 20.00mm

Kelford KVS10-BT SR20VE VALVE SPRING & TI RETAINER SET
95lb seat pressure, 15.00mm Maximum lift.

sss4me
08-07-2017, 09:30 PM
https://i.imgflip.com/1s69lw.jpg (https://imgflip.com/i/1s69lw)via Imgflip Meme Generator (https://imgflip.com/memegenerator)

sss4me
09-07-2017, 01:10 PM
decided to try a 184c intake / n1 exhaust setup for the new head. these will be both custom shimmed and degreed to my specs. more about this later. this is a second one..

http://i.imgur.com/KYnEpk4.jpg

after the first try didnt quite make it ( in one piece )

http://i.imgur.com/lEDwgDb.jpg

mezje
10-07-2017, 06:14 PM
So many images :( I always just host locally or use something like imgur which has no interest in retaining your photos, purely designed for things to be shared...

sss4me
10-07-2017, 07:31 PM
So many images :( I always just host locally or use something like imgur which has no interest in retaining your photos, purely designed for things to be shared...

its only recently the forum has allowed photo's straight from the members records,before you needed a photo publisher of some sort.

i have full intent to replace the photo's. got a new imgur account. the pga mods just have to increase my quota (whatever that means!)

mezje
10-07-2017, 08:27 PM
its only recently the forum has allowed photo's straight from the members records,before you needed a photo publisher of some sort.

i have full intent to replace the photo's. got a new imgur account. the pga mods just have to increase my quota (whatever that means!)

You're using up all the storage mmmmk

sss4me
11-07-2017, 10:48 PM
mazworx head hardware kit fitted last week.

http://i.imgur.com/5Riy1nd.jpg

sss4me
13-11-2017, 12:28 AM
Nearly 5 years after it started, it has finally finished. After an eternity, the new head and intake was fitted, and the new n1 exhaust cam to compliment the 184c intake. The head was properly shimmed, which proved somewhat difficult when the exhaust shims needed were all bigger than 3.25mm, and degreed properly to 104 centreline on the intake (which was actually -6 on the cam gears), and 0 on the exhaust.

https://i.imgur.com/59sJHfJ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/IVs8QTG.jpg

Ingrams also helped out with a bigger battery and a custom stand that doesn't get in the way of the fuse box or the intake.

https://i.imgur.com/NDfQpAu.jpg

New intake pipe finished to new setup, with the intake now running down into the lower front bumper

https://i.imgur.com/hsRVNrs.jpg

Shortly after it was fired up, it encountered a cooling issue, so a new 26mm natrad radiator was put in

Then the trip back to Chequered Tuning, and Trent again weaved his magic on the haltech. Shortly into the tune, he smiled and asked " whats the new redline gunna be, its still making power up there" , so we dialed in 9k as the new ceiling. No more restrictions were found, and really good power was made right up to the redline and beyond. A very high 6800 cam switch point was needed to keep the curve right, and trent ended up at +4 on the kelford intake (100 centreline) and zero on the n1 exhaust (110 centreline).

It ended up @ 148.8kw, but more importantly is making most of the power and torque up high now, which was the wish after the 4.78 final drive was put in.

https://i.imgur.com/BVnvWsa.jpg

here's some video's of a couple of runs. i suggest you turn up the volume

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBG9ez0L7rY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fnvy1MjsoUI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HUGFnVwsr9k

Leroy Peterson
13-11-2017, 07:02 AM
Awesome stuff, congrats on finishing and a great result.

dflux4
15-01-2018, 08:26 PM
Fukn mint, that sound when VVL kicks in is amazing!

sss4me
17-07-2018, 12:36 AM
quick update. been having issue's with the oil filter block developing small fractures and leaking oil everywhere. always wanted to fit an oil cooler, so i went it this direction. first is an autotech oil block adapter. to this little guy i had an extra 1/8npt thread drilled into it to accomodate both oem oil pressure and the defi oil pressure and oil temp sensors. Trust/greddy remote oil filter block, and a 13 row Setrab oil cooler with some mounting brackets to suit.

https://i.imgur.com/uJKYejol.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/jtqgI9Yl.jpg

Martin
17-07-2018, 09:51 AM
Minor point, that's not the Autotech oil block (which comes with two oil pressure sensor taps) - it's an MPI (very similar design)

Sam
17-07-2018, 08:20 PM
Minor point, that's not the Autotech oil block (which comes with two oil pressure sensor taps) - it's an MPI (very similar design)

Id say looking at mine its an identical design.

Martin
17-07-2018, 08:29 PM
As I said - very similar design

The Autotech version has "Autotech Motoring" engraved on it rather than "MPI"
The Autotech version comes with two ports, BSPT and NPT, for sensors - no need to drill & tap

sss4me
17-07-2018, 08:46 PM
its the same thing. mine has both bsp and npt, and i tapped another npt to replace a sandwich plate for my defi oil pressure/temp sensors

sss4me
30-08-2018, 10:18 PM
pic of the oil block adapter,with the extra npt thread tapped for the oil temp sensor, and how it looked with the aeroflow AF849-10-10 & AF840-10 fittings in it.

https://i.imgur.com/gyxDBmXl.jpg

sss4me
30-08-2018, 10:30 PM
https://i.imgur.com/yyVrk7O.jpg

fitted up with both defi and oem oil pressure/temp sensors

sss4me
30-08-2018, 10:39 PM
https://i.imgur.com/dPd9rro.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/HITr8VI.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KFdX7fs.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/mSAGz67.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/2hCbEa2.jpg

part numbers for all the 10an fittings and hose.

https://i.imgur.com/M6q2ADu.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/uJKYejo.jpg

big spacing to the motor, small spacing to the cooler. its important to realise that although the greddy remote oil cooler is thermo activated, and actually does cycle a little oil to the cooler even when its dead cold. it also uses a 7/16 (n14 sss) oil filter, not a n15 oil filter. i used about 4 meters of braided hose to complete all the plumbing.

https://i.imgur.com/ICnhuYE.jpg

early days, but the cooler seems to increase oil capacity by about 1 ltr, and although the cooler is one of the smallest in the setrab range (13 row x 20cm), the oil hasn't been over 80deg C, where as before it would run 90-100+C

Cozzm0
31-08-2018, 06:19 AM
I would seriously consider the mounting the filter block to a bracket off the chassis and NOT off the gearbox as it will be subject to vibration from the motor as it is now and thatís not what you want.

PhilSSStevenson
01-09-2018, 11:43 AM
BRAVO!

What a documented accomplishment.

Very organised, very planned and must be fun to do. You're not doing it 24/7, so is it when you are in the mood you go back to it?

Where is the pic of your bed in the workshop?


BRAVO!


Phil.