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Thread: Pulsar N14 bushing replacement.

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    PhilSSStevenson's Avatar
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    Pulsar N14 bushing replacement.

    Need some direction.

    Regarding an approach to replacing suspension bushes, what order of effect would one take. I.e. Which bushes do you start on if you were going to do a staggered bushing replacement project.

    Cheers...
    NISSAN Pulsar N14 SSS Oz spec - the SSS cult classic. Owned mine since 1992.

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    Need Input Cozzm0's Avatar
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    You shotgun it. You'll need an alignment afterwards so if you're doing it, you to a complete rear end, or a compete front end to make it worth while. The only ones you can change without an alignment is sway bar D bushes and end links.

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    PhilSSStevenson (17-06-2016)

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    PhilSSStevenson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cozzm0 View Post
    You shotgun it. You'll need an alignment afterwards so if you're doing it, you to a complete rear end, or a compete front end to make it worth while. The only ones you can change without an alignment is sway bar D bushes and end links.
    Thanks Cozzm0,

    Takin' the Red Jett to this joint next week.
    http://www.goldcoast-4wd.com.au/serv...uspension.html

    I told them that there was a sharp click coming from the rear end when going over undulating ground. Asked him to put the Jett on the hoist and give it a total check out. They said that many bushes may still be in good shape.

    So before I do a total sweep (as they described it), sounds like your shotgun description too, I'll get him to have a good look.
    He's also looking forward to seeing the Red Jett after my description to him.

    Keep ya posted.

    Question: How long do bushes last?
    Last edited by PhilSSStevenson; 17-06-2016 at 12:04 PM. Reason: typos...
    NISSAN Pulsar N14 SSS Oz spec - the SSS cult classic. Owned mine since 1992.

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    Need Input Cozzm0's Avatar
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    Focus closely on the driver side bracket for the sway bar, that's a very common point of cracking/failure, and sometimes removing the bracket might be required to spot early signs of cracking from around the captive nuts in the chassis rail.

    I would personally avoid changing any of the arm bushings because anything aftermarket, (especially poly) requires maintenance and while it feels good for a while, they dry out and start to bind over time. Sway bar bushings wear a lot faster because once they dry out, they bind up and the bar just rubs away at them, poly bushes are fine, but you still need to maintain them with fresh grease every once in a while. You'd actually be surprised at how much smoother that car can feel with JUST lubrication of the sway bar bushings.


    How long will the bushings last is a bit of a how long is a piece of string question. While they won't necessarily fall apart, they will overall deteriorate with age and allow more movement an become less elastic, at which point they'll tear. They're never going to be as good as new now, that's for sure, but unless there are signs of physical damage/tearing, i would leave them be (especially for the use your car gets).

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    PhilSSStevenson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cozzm0 View Post
    Focus closely on the driver side bracket for the sway bar, that's a very common point of cracking/failure, and sometimes removing the bracket might be required to spot early signs of cracking from around the captive nuts in the chassis rail.

    I would personally avoid changing any of the arm bushings because anything aftermarket, (especially poly) requires maintenance and while it feels good for a while, they dry out and start to bind over time. Sway bar bushings wear a lot faster because once they dry out, they bind up and the bar just rubs away at them, poly bushes are fine, but you still need to maintain them with fresh grease every once in a while. You'd actually be surprised at how much smoother that car can feel with JUST lubrication of the sway bar bushings.


    How long will the bushings last is a bit of a how long is a piece of string question. While they won't necessarily fall apart, they will overall deteriorate with age and allow more movement an become less elastic, at which point they'll tear. They're never going to be as good as new now, that's for sure, but unless there are signs of physical damage/tearing, i would leave them be (especially for the use your car gets).

    Tks Cozzm0,

    The rear right bracket that connects to the sway bar, may well be the culprit.

    Oh wise one. This bracket cracked about 2009. Went to a wrecker with my socket set. Dude at the door, said it was $5.00 to get in. When I retrieved the bracket from a tired finished N14 Q, I went back through his checkout. Looked at the part I had, and told me to keep walking. Not bad for $5.00.

    However, I had a quick look at it and looks OK, but now may well be the securing bolts. I’m checking it out when I receive this:

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261941553...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    Of which I will grease the Whiteline bushes on the front and rear sway bars.

    This may be all that is needed.

    So thank you, oh wise one…
    NISSAN Pulsar N14 SSS Oz spec - the SSS cult classic. Owned mine since 1992.

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    PhilSSStevenson's Avatar
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    Job done. Along with brake fluid change and engine coolant (with Redline Water Wetter), I checked out the rear end.

    Drivers side sway bracket was good, just tightened the securing bolt a bit.

    However, the Whiteline sway bar bushes front and rear were bone dry. Especially the rear ones. I think the original dudes didn't use the right grease, as the inside of the bushes were dry as a bone and in fact the rear bushes had a bit of dried stuff, more friction than providing suppleness.

    All done. Took the babe for a run and all fixed.
    NISSAN Pulsar N14 SSS Oz spec - the SSS cult classic. Owned mine since 1992.

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    PhilSSStevenson's Avatar
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    Angry

    Quote Originally Posted by PhilSSStevenson View Post
    Job done. Along with brake fluid change and engine coolant (with Redline Water Wetter), I checked out the rear end.

    Drivers side sway bracket was good, just tightened the securing bolt a bit.

    However, the Whiteline sway bar bushes front and rear were bone dry. Especially the rear ones. I think the original dudes didn't use the right grease, as the inside of the bushes were dry as a bone and in fact the rear bushes had a bit of dried stuff, more friction than providing suppleness.

    All done. Took the babe for a run and all fixed.
    Oh well, over time there is metal fatigue. As you start to improve areas.

    Started to get a clunk/bump/knock from right rear end.

    Had a geezer, and low and behold, the side sway bracket, had dislodged from the sub-frame, leaving a oblong hole.

    So the right hand side sway bar was hang in' in there. Lucky I got it checked out and only do few klicks. Took the Jett to a smash repairer in Nerang; he got under and we had a good chat. Probably four hours work. $280.00


    Cheers. . .
    Last edited by PhilSSStevenson; 06-01-2017 at 11:11 AM.
    NISSAN Pulsar N14 SSS Oz spec - the SSS cult classic. Owned mine since 1992.

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    PhilSSStevenson's Avatar
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    OK, job done to perfection.

    Rear sway bar now doing it's job.

    Phew! Vast improvement with turn-in, and the rest.

    I have read that some BMW's sway bar brackets snap off, and these dudes got them welded back.

    Even saw a few posts as questions, such as, 'Can I still drive with a broken rear sway bar?'

    Red Jett back on song.
    Last edited by PhilSSStevenson; 19-02-2017 at 11:40 AM.
    NISSAN Pulsar N14 SSS Oz spec - the SSS cult classic. Owned mine since 1992.

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