Nice! Mine is a 92 AUS spec and has tar sprayed inside the door and hatch panels (Oz version of corrosion inhibitor) - total messOriginally Posted by Ruddigger
So let's fix that problem - typically we get 20~21 cars on the grid and everybody has a blast
Here's my highlight's video from the August event at Wakefield
Lots of rear brake lock ups!
The good news is it's not at all hard to build a Pulsar Challenge car
The only tips that may be new to people not familiar with race car preparation:
1) Use dry ice to freeze the sound deadening on the floor, move the dry ice to another area, hit the sound deadening with a steel hammer, it shatters, see photo below, it's the cleanest and fastest method taking only ~20 minutes (exercise extreme care with dry ice as it is dangerous stuff to have an accident with)
2) Need a dual electrical cut out switch, one side goes between the battery + and the starter, the other side is used to cut the fuel or ignition
3) You need a ceramic button clutch (see photo) because the stock and heavy duty clutch will slip after 10 laps due to heat but make sure you have springs in the center (if it's solid you will chip gearbox teeth!)
4) For the N14 - Don't use the YellowSpeed sway bar attachment on the rear shocks - it can swing around an take out the tyre
5) For the N14 - get the ADF22 front calipers and the master cylinder from a N15 SSS
6) Probably a good idea to replace the engine mounts with solid poly (from CoastModz)
Note: You should expect HANS devices to be mandatory from 2016 (or 2017)
So if you're buying a new harness and helmet get the HANS gear
Check out this video which clearly shows how effective HANS can be
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