Thermostat. Which gasket for a 99 pulsar?

A few months back I had to replace the thermostat on my old 95 pulsar. Repco sold me a round rubber ring that wraps around the thermostat, and trident says that's it too. But the thermostat sits in a little ridge, (same as falcons/commodores) and there was no way it would sit there with and get the housing back on. So ended up cutting a thin piece of cardboard which worked fine. We'll, for 2 weeks until it met it's end in a head on.
So, can someone who may have done it on a 99 model confirm which type of gasket I really need, before I start scraping skin off getting those mongrel bolts off? Thanks heaps.

thermostat doesnt need the ring around it
just buy a blank gasket sheet (tridon make them) and cut out your own custom gasket for the housing

Thanks. Guess that's what I'll have to do. Was hoping to not have to take the inlet pipe off, just bend it enough out of the way to replace thermostat, but I guess I'll have to do it the hard way. Why the he'll does tridon say it needs that rubber ring, if it doesn't?

no idea
they've said the same thing for the sr20 as well

to be perfectly honest ive not played with the ga16, but i know the ring is not needed
tridon website doesn't have it on there...i think its more for packaging purposes

Bit of a thread dig here, but not worth starting a new thread.
Thermostat temperature? Looking at the Dayco types and they say a temp of 77c. That seems a little early/cold. Had to do the one in my 95 falcon and it's 92c. Is Dayco wrong perhaps? I'll be pissed if I change it and it runs too cold. (Hoping to do it tomorrow if it doesn't rain)

Done some googling and some other USA forums have said it's correct. It's 170f so that'll do.

Factory is 76.5degC ... it all relates to where the ECU switches over from cold to warm enrichment.

Dear fracken god, is this a bugger of a job. (Just venting here) Finally got thermostat apart and out. Only took about an hour. My hands are gonna be so scratched/scraped and bruised tomorrow.
As for the gasket, it's damn near impossible to get the hose off, so silastic may be my only hope here.

Just in case anyone is interested, here's a few pics that may be handy. I removed the thermostat housing from my written off 95 pulsar so I could cut the flat sheet gasket to size. Ended up putting a tridon thermostat in it, as it was all I could get in a hurry. It's 10c hotter than standard but temp needle still sits in the middle.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...58d9e63030.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...44c96f170e.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...d3eb8601ce.jpg
And do yourself a favor, and unplug move/remove hoses/bolts/wiring all around the work area.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...35a937c0c9.jpg

The dash gauge has a dead spot between 60-101degC, it won't move when the engine temp is between those figures.

Really??? What a dumb idea. So where my gauge is pointing could be anywhere between those 2 temps?
So if it went to 102 degrees would that make it point suddenly to max?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by yakabot

Really??? What a dumb idea. So where my gauge is pointing could be anywhere between those 2 temps?
So if it went to 102 degrees would that make it point suddenly to max?

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Its designed like that as its only there to indicate when the car is within normal operating temperature range, that's why there are no numbers. As soon as you go past 101degC it moves to H pretty quickly if the car gets hot.

I would imagine this has been solved by now, but incase someone reads it in the future.... The Nissan Manual recommends a liquid gasket for thermostat housing on the GA engines and the SR. I've used a Permatex 'Right Stuff' 1 minute gasket. It's excellent and if you haven't sealed it properly you can check it after 1 minute instead of hours like that other stuff in tubes.

The thermostat on the GA engines is a painful job. Very simple but very bad access. For the average diy mechanic it will take at least 3-4hrs..

Be VERY careful that the thermostat is seated 100% in the right place before you tighten down the housing, as if it pops into the housing mating surface, it will crack the housing when you tighten it down. You won't discover this until it leaks when you think your finished and then remove it again to have it fall apart in your hands!!!

Thanks ptrain for that info, but with how hard it is to reassemble, I wouldn't want the liquid gasket sealing within a minute. 5 minutes worth of drying time would be better. By the time you align the parts back together, get a bolt in, then twist around 3 times with your spare blood soaked, knuckle broken other hand for the 2nd and 3rd bolts, 1 minute isn't enough.
If this thermostat breaks, I seriously would think about replacing the car.
Since doing the job, I have turned to all religions and pray every day that the hose connected to it never ever needs replacing. Cos' I have no fracken idea how I'd go about it

Haha I feel your pain! I did it twice as I cracked the housing!!

The Permatex stuff is workable for about 10 mins but the can says it's 'drivable' after 1. Chemistry magic I guess....

My hose burst just last week! I took one look at it and thought 'its Christmas' and treated myself to the mechanic to do it lol... 180NZD... Still worth it I think!

Going to dig this thread and say hi to whoever is left. I have a N15 2000 Pulsar SSS bought brand new in September 2000. I will update this site in the next few weeks with what I have.

Anyway. I just bought a genuine nissan thermostat. Is there a gasket I need. The lady at spare parts said they don't sell anything but there is a rubber ring that goes there

No gasket. The rubber ring is packing material only to stop the sharp edges ripping through the box. Silicone RTV/ Gasket goo is used on the thermostat housing to seal it. You need to clean it real good and let it go off before you add water and heat it up/pressurise the system.