This build always makes things look easy [emoji14]
Nice addition including what you would change... We'd have some amazing cars if we could re-do things
This build always makes things look easy [emoji14]
Nice addition including what you would change... We'd have some amazing cars if we could re-do things
exhaust time.
i have covered quite a few header options in this thread. http://pulsar.org.au/forums/showthre...header-options
initially my exhaust set up was some ssac's, a press bent 2 1/2 system with lukey/walker 17733 rear muffler. worked ok. changed it all up to current spec, some custom made 23" 4-1's from protech fabrication in the states, with a couple of good resonators and an apexi ws-2 rear muffler, in a mandrel bent 3" system. some pics
http://i.imgur.com/cGySwsLl.jpg
coating the headers not only looks the goods (wrapping is ugly imo) , it has reduced the under bonnet temps, whilst holding the exhaust heat in better on the inside of it. hotter gases= faster flow.
the exhaust flange has been cut into 4, to reduce shipping costs and eliminate the possibility of a warped flange.
http://i.imgur.com/IaiUPRsl.jpg
if your wondering why the 2 1/4" choke point is there, its been proved to increase output (exhaust harmonics) as well as extend the peak hp point further past its max. def works too.
small flexi, 100cell cat converter, vibrant super quiet resonator
http://i.imgur.com/n7AehQhl.jpg
another 18" resonator attached to the over axle pipe. 3" pipe is really hard to get right there
http://i.imgur.com/fJQxfe3l.jpg
apexi ws-2 just fits.
http://i.imgur.com/iRjQPI3l.jpg
Attachment 946
Attachment 947
edit time!! since this time i replace the xforce resonator with a magnaflow 5" centre muffler. the real trick for a quieter drone free and great sounding exhaust is the fill in the centre section with really good resonators/mufflers. rear muffler is not so vitally important, as long as it flows well.
http://i.imgur.com/Z1RPDTJl.jpg
so i done a 2 virtual dyno runs to illustrate the difference the headers and system made.
before 120kw
http://i.imgur.com/VlgPq4c.jpg
after 140kw
http://i.imgur.com/uUAnpQV.jpg
most importantly, you will see i lost NOTHING going to the bigger system and 4-1 headers. gains right through, stronger in the mid range, and huge increase after 6k.
i also used a i-phone app called "decibel 10th" to compare inside and outside noise levels. the new system wasn't that much louder, and most importantly it is pretty drone-free inside. you can talk.
ended up at chequered tuning in melbourne. trent had it to 145kw pretty quickly.playing with the cam gears made no difference, 3hrs later.
http://i.imgur.com/tCkyD9k.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/2hitDI3.jpg
video of a run.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5x1k6-qm7Jk
most good ve's will push 220-ish psi on a compression gauge. i figure my motor's compression is around the 13-1 mark, with the n1 pistons and metal head gasket.
http://i.imgur.com/HDX7kb3.jpg
disappointed not to get any increase with the cam gears, and after a quick word to jamie marsh, i decided to purchase some more lift
http://i.imgur.com/ynQfhsF.jpg
my findings are documented in this thread. http://pulsar.org.au/forums/showthre...bers-explained
http://i.imgur.com/PKfXEgz.jpg
replaced the standard retainers with some titanium ones from b.c to cater to the increased lift and the extra retainer to valve stem seal clearance needed.
http://i.imgur.com/8mFLHHp.jpg
kelfords required a re-shim. found the intake clearance too tight.
back at ingram engineering, they had some pretty cool tools to replace the retainers. using air to hold the valves up, this compresses the spring
http://i.imgur.com/jrffm2a.jpg
leverage provided by
http://i.imgur.com/MrhQUY9.jpg
which screws on top to this, which screws into the spark plug hole
http://i.imgur.com/y5XOxP7.jpg
so hows the idle you ask. its stockish. click the photo.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7BDJKC_CPQ
and here's a video of the earlier dyno run.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5x1k6-qm7Jk
more to come.
Very nice :)
I would love to drive it and just hit this bit of the power curve :p
Attachment 1039
update time. my motor fell victim to a fake walbro pump. hopefully its done no lasting damage. the below photo's may help others in the future
http://i.imgur.com/Op9iUa6.jpg
fake pump
http://i.imgur.com/xdX1iIy.jpg
real pump
http://i.imgur.com/AAy3ek2.jpg
shipped the car down to trent at chequered tuning, to revise the tune for the new cams. got good news and bad news. the good news was solid improvements in much on the range below 7100. the bad news is it hits a brick wall after this. this led to a 3kw loss from there on. once again, playing with the cam gears made no difference.
http://i.imgur.com/FJ8nn96.jpg
here's a video of it. kelfords sound like hi-cam everywhere now
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UBos9YDhRwY
in an effort to increase the kelfords top end, i decided to change the intake to a shorter, bigger diameter runner gato intake with some top feed's
http://i.imgur.com/UNsNsqC.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/UcCG31t.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/gYeuJcr.jpg
a seeing the budget is long blown, a got me an ati damper , some new standalone management
http://i.imgur.com/0mnl0Sd.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Vg0yKrI.jpg
Chasing more for what reason though mate? you've put a solid setup together, i just think spending THAT much more is going to be a disappointing venture. Good job on keeping with it though.
Sss4me, I'm with Cozzm0 on this one
The setup you have put together is very solid and very neat, people would love to have such a nice N15 with a motor and power curve like the one you have,
So here's my opinion:
You say you've already blown out of your budget,
So getting a new manifold, buying a standalone, having a full retune done and pouring much more money into it to get to some magical hp figure that you're not far off is probably not worth it, you will sacrifice just as much as what you will gain, all for some silly numbers the dyno spits out and not necessarily a better overall setup
You say you have done your research so if you genuinely think the manifold is what's stopping you from achieving your target then go ahead and replace it and just touch up the tune to suit it,
But adding a standalone and by the way your talking most likely changing other things too probably won't make it a better setup overall and will cost you a alot of money and there will always be something else that you will think you could have done better or something else you will want to buy and it will never end
I really like what you've done with the car and you should give yourself a pat on the back and be happy with it and go drive it and enjoy it :)
What was trents comments on your current ECU? Are the injectors nearing their flow limit?
I understand you wanting to get the most out of your (well thought out) system, but are you just chasing numbers or does it not feel as fast as you'd like?
With such a linear power band and high revving motor, I would think reducing rotating masses would be better bang for buck over fine tuning runners. Light weight pulleys, super light wheels, etc. (Though, not sure how much the runners would would actually cost)
Shameless plug: my powerfc is still available, cheaper and less wiring to complete than standalone.
Wow love all the photos, great read!
Shhhhh
[emoji14]
thanks mate. main reason for continuing is that personally i'm not happy with the higher end, and i know it can be better. i could sense it on the dyno with the n1's. i think now i wrongly thought it was the cams, rather than the intake airflow, and the fact that advancing the intake cam made it worse, where in every other sr20ve it has made things better, was a warning something wasn't right.
putting the bigger cams in has made it great now below 7k, to the point where you can feel it squirming on the lsd, but has brought a quicker end to the power,just at the point where it the car it feel like its about to take off.
if the issue was electrical, trent would of been on it. something simple like maf or inj duty will stand out. its made power to 8300 with the n1's, and spun to 9k with no issues on multiple dyno's. so why now is it out of puff at 7k? kelford guessed "The earlier peak power could possibly be running out of head flow in the top end. The 184-C cams have more valve area than the N1's so it would make sense to hit the flow limit of the head earlier" that got me thinking, in light of jamie's statement about the head flowing more than 300hp on his stroker motor, that the restriction is in the intake. i guess i'll know soon enough.
thanks for the imput but guys, i appreciate the thought involved in this.
n15 sss de loom to ve dizzy wiring.excuse the doctors handwriting
Attachment 1154
forgetting the colours, this is how the numbers run. pro tip is to label the wires if your doing it this way
Attachment 1155
ve dizzy plug as viewed from the bottom!
Attachment 1156
your current de wiring
Attachment 1157
Attachment 1158
you will find this resistor in your de loom near the dizzy, and it has to come out, because the ve dizzy has this already,internally. cut it out, and solder the wires together.
Attachment 1167
tensions for the important parts of your build
Attachment 1159
Attachment 1160
Attachment 1161
n15 sss ecu pinout.
Attachment 1162
Attachment 1163
Attachment 1164
Attachment 1165
Attachment 1166
pipemax 398 is an interesting system for calculation of header and intake manifold dimensions. these are for ve intake manifolds. the first is a modded ve with n1 cams, and the second my sr20ve with 184c kelfords. there are 4.75inchs of flow in a ve head for reference. 3rd harmonic is best torque to hp combo. 2nd harmonic gives the highest torque , but lower peak rpm torque and hp numbers
n1's
http://i.imgur.com/jgKU7yv.jpg
184c's
http://i.imgur.com/fqRUuLg.jpg