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View Full Version : Cv joint going bad ? Video attached



Australia
04-09-2016, 10:11 AM
Gday , I get occasional noise when driving , like a single crack/ping noise , is the cv joint bad ?

Excessive play ?

Car is in gear and jacked up for video
https://vimeo.com/181349493

Australia
04-09-2016, 10:13 AM
https://vimeo.com/181349612

yakabot
04-09-2016, 11:48 AM
I've fortunately never had to do any repairs to cv joints so I can't help you, but it does seem like a lot of freeplay there. On something rear wheel drive like my commodore or falcon, the real wheel has some movement but nowhere near that much.

Edit. Based on this YouTube clip I found, I'd say it was knackered. But wait until the brains trusts here comment. They'll know more than me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66rd30DSoh0&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Cozzm0
04-09-2016, 07:10 PM
Doesn't seem unusual to me. That's no play in the shaft, that's backlash to the gearbox and the gears in the gearbox. You need to get under the car to check shaft play. Thread moved to appropriate section.

If you hold the shaft with your hand and turn the hub and there is play between the midshaft and either end, then its likely a problem.

Australia
04-09-2016, 07:16 PM
Cheers Thankyou , I moved the shaft and has a little play horizontally on both Sides , not sure if it suppose to ?

sss4me
04-09-2016, 07:32 PM
find a big car park, go full lock at walking pace, then feed the power in. the noise will tell you pretty quick

Cozzm0
04-09-2016, 07:32 PM
little bit is OK, couple of mm max. 5+ mm of play is too much

Australia
04-09-2016, 07:35 PM
Yep I've tried the full lock turning and it does not make the noise . Only happens when not turning .

PhilSSStevenson
05-09-2016, 03:59 PM
Replace the hub bearings…

If it is a N14/N15
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FRONT-WHEEL-BEARING-KIT-JAPANESE-NISSAN-PULSAR-N14-91-95-N15-1995-2000-4131-/201020361248

Australia
07-09-2016, 05:22 AM
Thanks , it's a N16 - it's booked in to get a cv boot done so they will have a look at it and I will get them to do the left bearing also just in case , cheers guys

Australia
07-09-2016, 08:19 PM
Now it's more prominent upon breaking and acceleration, has almost new brake pads and machined disc rotors , have not had a car that's done it before .

Australia
09-09-2016, 01:52 PM
Cheers , Just a update , cv boot has been done but they could not find any other issues , go figure....

Noise still present ,

Australia
21-09-2016, 09:03 PM
This is now getting annoying, if I use the handbrake to slow or stop the noise disappears,

Pads are 80% and discs have been machined 6 months ago ,

Could it be the pads moving or brake play movement ? When braking or acceleration?

Cozzm0
22-09-2016, 04:58 PM
If i reverse out a driveway brake to a stop, then take off down the street, the first application of the brakes to slow down at the end of the street i can sometimes get a single knock which is pad movement usually. If its happening every time you brake then something doesn't sound right. You can try some of the brake squeak stop goo which is just high temp RTV silicone that basically sticks the pads to the caliper might help maybe.

Australia
23-09-2016, 12:50 PM
If i reverse out a driveway brake to a stop, then take off down the street, the first application of the brakes to slow down at the end of the street i can sometimes get a single knock which is pad movement usually. If its happening every time you brake then something doesn't sound right. You can try some of the brake squeak stop goo which is just high temp RTV silicone that basically sticks the pads to the caliper might help maybe.

Cheers , I re-lubed the Brake guides and pad contact points last night also did the hi temp silicone ,
But after test drive the noise was still present , bummer .

Narrowed down the noise to low speed take off and slow speed stop , sort of a single crack type noise .

When speed is above 20kmph with accelerate and braking no noise is happening ,

I think the wheel bearing or left cv possibly has to be looked at again ?

Thanks for the assistance guys . Much appreciated .

Australia
28-09-2016, 08:58 PM
Just a update , I am persistent .

Knock noise is getting more regular and a fraction louder ,

I can now make the noise happen with handbrake on standing still with car under load , it's a manual .

Not sure who is best to look at it ,

suspension specialist ?

transmission specialist ?

Any clues ?

Cozzm0
29-09-2016, 07:13 AM
If you can now replicate the noise you should be able to get the car up on a 4 post lift and have a mechanic under the car looking for the noise. Any noise that can be replicated is a LOT easier to find.

Australia
29-09-2016, 03:50 PM
Cheers Cozzm0 ,

Took it to a franchise mechanic today....
and he found a engine mount that was torn that I thought was ok , he thought it was the cause so went with it , he showed me the separation after part was out .

After a checkover he did not catch any other issues , but admitted the noise is still there on occasions after engine mount replacement.

I think next will be a suspension specialist.

Australia
03-10-2016, 12:14 PM
Took this vid of when I am pushing down on quarter panel hard , might be related hopefully , anyone else familiar with the noise ?

No excess play can be felt that I can tell

https://vimeo.com/185264983

Australia
10-10-2016, 02:47 PM
Update ,

So I worked out what was causing the knock on the video , so called dead spring tapping each other , the springs were professionally fitted king springs ....

But unfortunately it's not the cause of the take off and braking clunk noise .


I fitted a stock standard strut/spring to passenger side from the wreckers but noise was still there , but one thing I did notice was the stupid idiot from a shock / spring company installed my top coil bracket around the wrong way , i.e. The arrow pointing In instead of Out direction as per factory manual , and was still not noticed when new shocks were fitted by a national chain mechanic a year ago .

So I will fit correctly tomorrow and see , but that leave the cv joint or bearing as the main cause .

Australia
11-10-2016, 09:51 AM
Is there any reason why someone would of installed the top coil plate incorrectly?

Or just a stuff up ?

White dots were applied for some reason ?

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161010/fedca2cdd6dc2545544f89b62aaeeb9f.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161010/10ae19955dc1830cd2203d2f68f9e474.jpg

Cozzm0
12-10-2016, 03:47 PM
Dots probably applied when the springs were installed.

Australia
12-10-2016, 03:48 PM
Dots probably applied when the springs were installed.

Cheers , what reason would they do it for ?

Cozzm0
12-10-2016, 03:50 PM
Usually the arrow indicates the inside of the vehicle (or the outside, i always get that stuff mixed up haha) as some top hats are not symmetrical with their bolt patterns and the spring perches are also often offset so the spring doesn't sit centrally around the shock absorber so if the top and bottom perches are not lined up, the spring will sit funny or not properly.

Australia
12-10-2016, 09:58 PM
Cheers thanks Cozzm0 ,

Just another update :

Got a Mechanic to Replaced wheel bearing with New one .
And I installed a set of nolathane red sway bar link bushes today .

AND Still has the single crack/ pop noise when braking and taking off , only happens once , not a continuous noise

Running out of ideas and no one locally seems to know where the noise is coming from ....

Cozzm0
14-10-2016, 06:54 AM
Man that sucks ! Maybe its actually a spot weld cracking or something else like some movement in the subframe. All this kind of thing is really hard to remotely diagnose, but the fact that you were able to replicate it should have made it a lot easier to track down for the mechanic with a stethescope probe type implement.

Australia
14-10-2016, 07:01 AM
Cheers , took it to a genuine Nissan workshop yesterday and I will be buggered , they fixed it ,
Very happy.

Loose K frame bolt ! So yes it was flexing.

All the other mechanics missed it .

Cozzm0
14-10-2016, 07:21 AM
Wow glad you got it sorted eventually (and ironically a suggestion i didnt think it would be so i didn't mentioned the subframe until now...), but such a cost involved with the hit and miss mechanics.

Australia
14-10-2016, 08:09 AM
Yes when 4 different mechanics looked at the car and replaced a few things you would think they would of checked over all those places ( as I asked them to) , but anyway all good now and happy .

sss4me
14-10-2016, 01:44 PM
genuine nissan fixed it...

buy yourself a lotto ticket

Australia
04-11-2016, 07:39 PM
genuine nissan fixed it...

buy yourself a lotto ticket

Too late mate , problem is fixed permanently now , lol someone was kind enough to write the car off a few days ago while it was parked .