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OZY-20
13-12-2015, 05:18 PM
Hey guys, so basically im thinking for my motor these options:

full exhaust with extractors 2 and 1/4 inch all the way through,
tomei poncams
and a nistune ecu? or are they a chip not too sure??

my question is, whats the general price on most of these items, and can you install the poncams without tuning the car?

Cheers

Cozzm0
13-12-2015, 05:42 PM
Poncams can be installed without a tune, the car will run fine. Worst thing that might happen is stalling approaching lights or when turning a corner with clutch in. This can be fixed by bumping the idle up a little. Can be installed with hand tools in a garage, but you need to be reasonably experienced to do it.

Nistune is a Daughterboard setup installed inside the factory ECU and takes over all control of the ECU. Its like having a stock ECU and being able to remap and adjust all settings on it. Made in Australia.

Poncams on special $579 - http://coastmodz.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=3_33&products_id=12

nistune $286 + installation and postage - www.nistune.com

OZY-20
13-12-2015, 06:02 PM
awesome thanks a lot.

luke.gonano98@gmail.com
15-12-2015, 06:02 PM
But if your going to get a tune done, then bumping up the idle is not need usually


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

PhilSSStevenson
23-12-2015, 02:41 PM
However the NIStune ecu will make the engine run smoother and tune for 98 RON. It is worth it. Timing to be set stock.

I went to ChipTorque on the Gold Coast and had a chip added. This was 2004. Then tuned on the dyno. Pomcam lobe grinds are almost identical to mine - Jim Wolfe Technology S3 billet cams.

http://jimwolftechnology.com/customer_part_detail.asp?PartID=13

So, Lachlan Riddel, used SR20 Pomcam maps to improve on my JWT Cams. In 2004 it cost me $1,000.00. Phew!

You will get a smoother drive and around 4,000 rpm you start to fly… :)

Interesting old news, but relevant to our rides:

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&title=ChipTorques-Lachlan-Riddel-Part-1&A=0580

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&title=ChipTorques-Lachlan-Riddel-Part-2&A=0586

Cheers...

OZY-20
01-01-2016, 04:47 PM
what would be the around about figure of FwKW achieved with 4 2 1 extractors with 2 and 1/4 inch exhaust, poncams, k&n air filter, and a nis tune tuned. ?? i would assume somewhere around the 90kw mark? has anyone got a similar set up ?
'

Boosted VLAD
01-01-2016, 05:16 PM
Bengineering Made 99fwkw on a healthy sr20de with a 2.5inch exhaust system + Pon cams and NO tune and factory air box,

With your setup I expect you to pull the same sort of numbers, close to the 100fwkw mark, depending on the health of your motor and the particular dyno on the day

PUL58N
07-01-2016, 02:12 AM
I currently have cams on the way. Getting them installed @ Advanced Motor Mechanics Sydney. I'm going to ask for before and after dyno run for numbers.

150k sr20de
Hurricane 4-2-1
Custom Front pipe 2.5"
Stainless High Flow cat 2.5"
Mild steel cat back system 2.5"

OZY-20
07-01-2016, 04:44 AM
nice mate!! cant wait to see the results.

PhilSSStevenson
08-01-2016, 04:04 PM
I am interested in the results also:

After all my mods, see:
http://pulsar.org.au/forums/showthread.php?349-The-Red-Jett-Nissan-Pulsar-N14-SSS-Oz-spec

I got 97 k at the wheel - stock is estimated at 74 k (that did not count, Fidanza flywheel, GFB crank pulley and Outlaw Thermal Spacers), which the dyno can't detect.

Some dyno shops might turn the numbers up ( as a placebo effect), but ChipTorque will not.


Reduce weight! That is the key. Run fuel at 1/2 tank. Remove your girlfriend sandals, Playboy mags, empty wine bottles, etc.

Stats:
My N14 SSS
0 – 100 - 6.9 seconds – Google cars that achieve this…
Handling: Like a RenaultSport Magane


So by a formula, that even Vlad (my mate) would find hard to fathom, I calculated that the increase in kilowatts at the wheel to the fly was circa 124 klwts. Converted in bhp, equals 179 bhp.

Therefore my AVATAR.

Cheers,

Bengineering
08-01-2016, 04:52 PM
105kW at the flywheel is roughly 84wkW, not 74.

If you think ChipTorque didn't fudge numbers... You've definitely bought into their marketing. ChipTorque had a pretty poor reputation, and were favored almost exclusively by clueless bogans. Overpriced and underdelivering.

That said, my car made 99.5wkW, on a dyno that by all reports that day was reading low. Dozens of cars ran on the same dyno that day and many of them ran 10% or more lower than their previously proven figures.

The formula to work out flywheel HP isn't hard to fathom at all: ((((wkW/3)*4)/80)*100).

This converts wkW into hp and then accounts for an average drive train loss of 20% (considered standard for FWD drive trains).

Based on this, your calculation of 124kW at the flywheel for your motor are inaccurate. 94wkW is roughly 117kW at the flywheel. That's about 156hp. Can you share the formula you used to work out your number?

P.S: Fidanza flywheel, thermal spacers and an upgraded pulley won't increase horsepower.

PhilSSStevenson
08-01-2016, 09:50 PM
P.S: Fidanza flywheel, thermal spacers and an upgraded pulley won't increase horsepower. I agree and the dyno could not pick that up, but however 0-100 kilometres went from 8.6 stock to 6.9 seconds. So acceleration is improved.

It always depends… It's one of those dyno conundrums…

In the early 2000's ChipTorque was a well established and reputable company. They prepared cars for many races for the Willowbank/Lakeside Raceway.The day I was there, there was a Nissan 200SX, Nissan R34 GTR, and lots of WRX's…
All happy customers, as I spoke to them all.

However I believe you are correct, regarding the stock figure.

This is interesting:
http://www.sr20forum.com/all-motor/214821-official-sr20de-dyno-proven-power-thread.html

So I'm pulling 103 kilowatts at the wheels.

But here are my stats:

Stats:
My N14 SSS
0 – 100 - 6.9 seconds – Google cars that achieve this…
Handling: Like a RenaultSport Magane

ps: re my formula, I discovered it after a bottle of Cognac. That might explain it…

Well I'm not giving up my Holden EH 179 badge. Should be about a 204 badge. Thanks dude… Love your formula, just patented it...

:cool:

PhilSSStevenson
09-01-2016, 10:41 AM
Also…

Don't ever buy one of these.

http://www.racechip.com/chiptuning/?gclid=CJuB7LC9m8oCFQqjvQodCxsJFQ

Purchased one for my partners Peugeot 207 GTI (which has the same BMW Prince 1.6 turbo engine as the Mini Cooper S, etc.)
The early BMW Prince engines had disastrous issues with the timing chain. It was made with less chain width, and would stretch and stuff up engine timing. Tensioners were also to blame. Some chains would go after 20,000 klicks, unlike the Nissan SR20 chain, which is bullet proof, except for the tensioner, which may need changing every now and again.
Her Pug started to exhibit the 'death rattle' at 95,000 klicks, even though I change the oil on her donk every 5,000 (with filter every other time). Turbo is in great shape btw...
I purchased a full set timing chain kit from the UK for $500.00 (Peugeot Oz wanted $1,200.00) and got my 'private' Pug mechanic (who I met at the dealership) to fit the chain for $500.00 in his own garage on a weekend.
He told me that the timing was well out. Also upgraded the ECU with the latest software version. I noticed a smoother idle, improved performance, less injector racket, and the engine oil stays cleaner much longer.

Mini class action in the US:
http://www.forthepeople.com/class-action-lawyers/mini-cooper-timing-chain-lawsuit/

Re the RaceChip:
It was rubbish. After I installed it, the car went into turbo limp mode and all engine fans stayed on.
Phew! - Then I took it out and eventually got my refund.

However the Nistune chip for a SR20 should be more successful.

It's always touch and go, so ensure you have a money back guarantee.

Cheers…

Bengineering
09-01-2016, 12:53 PM
P.S: Fidanza flywheel, thermal spacers and an upgraded pulley won't increase horsepower. I agree and the dyno could not pick that up, but however 0-100 kilometres went from 8.6 stock to 6.9 seconds. So acceleration is improved.

You've also got power increasing mods that will help in lowering your 0-100 time! Light weight rotating mass items will help you rev more quickly more than anything. I'm sure that would help with acceleration somewhat, but I think power is probably more significant.



In the early 2000's ChipTorque was a well established and reputable company.

The only ChipTorque I went to was the one in Nerang near all the motorbike shops. Every single time I spoke to them I felt as though someone had poured a bucket of stupid on me and sprinkled a few choice buzzwords that sounded technical and fast.



The day I was there, there was a Nissan 200SX, Nissan B34 GTR, and lots of WRX's…
All happy customers, as I spoke to them all.

Of all the people I spoke to at car meets I went to at BWCP before it got closed off and remodeled, anyone with a ChipTorque sticker on their car generally didn't have a clue what they were talking about. ChipTorque was a big name brand, so people bought "fully sick" cars and took them there to get them "tuned" and whacked a big sticker on their car and hard parked the **** out of it, standing by their car acting all hectic and tough. Then you'd ask them something about their car and all you'd get for an answer was ChipTorque marketing dribble; no one I spoke to who had a ChipTorque sticker on their car (over the course of maybe two years) ever had a single intelligent thing to say about their car, but all thought they owned the fastest thing in the world and their justification was pretty much always "mate ChipTorque did it so it's the fastest". I remember one guy with a ChipTorque sticker that I'll never forget; he had an N/A S13, he was INSISTING it was turbo, INSISTING that ChipTorque modified the ECU to run higher boost and kept pointing to his radiator asking why it had an intercooler if it wasn't turbo.

Yup.



This is interesting:
http://www.sr20forum.com/all-motor/2...er-thread.html

So I'm pulling 103 kilowatts at the wheels.

But here are my stats:


That's a single roller dyno; they're really common in the US and are nowhere near as accurate as twin roller dyno's made by companies like DynoDynamics. Twin roller dynos read higher if you only use one of the rollers, which is why some places will strap the car down on top of one roller rather than in the valley using both, so it reads higher.

PhilSSStevenson
09-01-2016, 01:22 PM
Well, I was very happy with these ChipTorque dudes, as there was a noticeable improvements in the SSS's acceleration. They even had me back for free when I started getting detonation (I run 98 RON) in 2nd gear on an incline with low revs. Put it back on the dyno. Sorted it and I watched as this dude did it. I saw how he changed the maps for the issue. Dyno again and with increased kilowatts.

So go figure…

The Fidanza fly wheel and GFB crank pulley, also did the trick. Most noticeable in first and second gears acceleration.

The Outlaw Engineering Thermal spacers (and isolating the coolant (hot) going through the throttle body - no need in Oz), are just great for traffic situations, lots of idling causing heat buildup - notable acceleration in first gear from long waiting traffic light situations.

Everything else you have said I agree with… Luv 'em all.

I can only repeat my stats, which is more than ample for me:

My N14 SSS
0 – 100 - 6.9 seconds – Google cars that achieve this…
Handling: Like a RenaultSport Magane

Sprog
10-01-2016, 03:33 PM
What's this throttle body stuff?

PhilSSStevenson
11-01-2016, 12:45 PM
What's this throttle body stuff?

Re Thermal Spacers:

Check this out:

I purchased my SR20DE high-port thermal spacers from Outlaw Engineering in the USA. It also included the throttle body coolant bypass brass joiners.

http://s160.photobucket.com/user/covertrussian/media/Sentra%20SE-L/Performance/ThermoBlok%20Spacers/nissansr20lo2.jpg.html

Re throttle body:
There is a coolant hose that goes to and from the throttle body. Required in very cold climates, so to prevent the butterfly from sticking open when frozen…

The coolant is really ‘hotant’ as it will keep your throttle body hot. So by rerouting the coolant hose to bypass the throttle body no hot water can heat it up.

Cheers…

Bengineering
11-01-2016, 01:23 PM
Got any pictures of this coolant hose connected to the TB? I've never seen it and mine doesn't have one lol.

Boosted VLAD
11-01-2016, 01:43 PM
1143

PhilSSStevenson
11-01-2016, 01:48 PM
Got any pictures of this coolant hose connected to the TB? I've never seen it and mine doesn't have one lol.


Phew! My comrade, Vad the Ruskie, beat me to it!

Here is the full info you need to do it:

http://www.sr20forum.com/technical-information-library/237852-how-b14-throttle-body-heater-bypass.html

Cheers…

ps: I believe Outlaw Engineering for the thermal blocks of which you got three, one for the throttle body, intake manifold and plenum, are no longer in business.
Purchased mine in 2007. Got all the new gaskets also and longer bolts, etc.

Love_em_Leave_em
12-01-2016, 07:03 AM
Got any pictures of this coolant hose connected to the TB? I've never seen it and mine doesn't have one lol.

Do you have one? Or didn't you look well enough? Lol

Love_em_Leave_em
12-01-2016, 07:05 AM
Great info. All this stuff was once on this site. Did you fit the thermal spacers yourself? How long?

PUL58N
13-01-2016, 03:35 AM
I got my pon cams installed but sadly the workshop did not have a dyno! They do build the craziest sr20 vet's pushing over 600rwkw! Pj quickbits s13 is one example.

Took less then hour for cams to get installed and power is noticeably stronger. Especially from 5000k onwards it doesn't stop pulling even to 7500.

Ill be getting a dyno next time I have time off just to see figures. Shame I couldn't have a before and after like a promised.